Every brand, at any rate those with a verifiable foundation, has its own trademarks, those undeniable signs that make its DNA, assisting individuals with rapidly recognizing a watch from a specific brand. For a few, it is the state of the case or a hand, for other people, it very well may be the complication utilized. For one brand, Urban Jürgensen, these are little subtleties, anyway with a particularly level of execution that they merit a whole story in this magazine – something that we’ll attempt to show with the furthest down the line expansion to the list, the great 1140RG in Rose Gold with a dull brown dial.
The Urban Jürgensen reference 1140 is a watch that we previously covered here, when the brand divulged a stunning platinum form, with blue dial and applied Breguet numerals (indeed, for this situation, the name Breguet doesn’t just allude to the production yet additionally to the state of the numerals, which have been broadly utilized in the watch business). For this situation, we allude to the old style adaptation of this watch, with a conventional Swiss switch escapement, and not the in fact great 1140C rendition, which includes a detent escapement ( a watch completely clarified here ).
Basically, the Urban Jürgensen 1140RG is the rose gold, brown dial, rod files adaptation of the current watch here . It is a basic watch, with just 3 hands and no particular complications (except for a twin-barrel), in any case, all the interest of this piece is inferred from its excellent tastefulness and the prevalent completing of all its components, case, dial, hands and development notwithstanding, which drives us to the 4 subtleties that you should see on this watch, to completely value the what the ideas of haute-horlogerie and hand-made mean.
The hand-guilloché dial
In the watch business, there’s extravagance and afterward there’s very good quality. As we’ve consistently tried to illustrate, there’s a huge improvement between the two, anyway this is often only obvious to trained eyes, and just in the details – subtleties that make the excellence of an item. Concerning dials with guilloché-like or genuine guilloché designs, there are two different ways to get things done. The first, the most common and, you got it, the least expensive route is by stepping the dial. A clear plate is squeezed under such a framework with a switched design, “printing” a few reliefs and breaks on a dial. There’s nothing amiss with it, as it brings a decent surface, and permits the proprietor to appreciate a traditional plan requiring little to no effort – Montblanc or Frédérique Constant utilize this method for case, on watches estimated far underneath 5K.
However, there’s per second strategy, one that makes an item brimming with life, loaded with subtleties, for certain abnormalities – and regarding craftsmanship, anomalies are typically an indication of a human mediation. This resembles the difference between hand-sewed packs by Hermes and machine-sewed sacks by Lancel. It may just be a detail, yet it is the one that gives an article all its refinement. With Urban Jurgensen, the dials are created using a conventional and hand-made procedure, the motor turning measure likewise called guillochage in French. A hand-controlled machine (ordinarily extremely old, as it is the situation for the Urban Jürgensen dial-producer) duplicates an example that has been engraved on a lattice on a strong silver plate. The machine requires very careful control, to apply the equivalent pressure on all pieces of the dial to make an even pattern all over.
The fine guilloché one-piece strong silver dial delivered by Urban Jürgensen on the 1140RG needs up to 700 activities and requires 2 entire long periods of hand work to complete. The outcome is an assortment of complex and tedious examples. On account of the Urban Jürgensen 1140RG, we have a Grains d’orges (barleycorn) on the focal region of the dial and Guilloché Damier design (checkered) inside the little second sub-dial. These are not by any means the only surfaces found on the dial in any case, concerning case the hour ring is surrounded by two circles with grain design and the chapter ring is roundabout brushed. This make a dial loaded with surface, tactful from the outset yet incredibly itemized when intently observed.
The hand-made hands
To complement such a dial, there is obviously no likelihood to have machine-made hands. For sure, the vast majority of watches feature hands made by essentially stamping a slender sheet of metal, at that point getting done with a few improvement and painting measures. Indeed, this is the easy way. On the Urban Jürgensen 1140RG, the decision was for the complex, tedious way, anyway with an outcome that is just dazzling. The nearby photograph underneath will surely give the exhibition of “attention to the details”.
We might have discussed the records as well, which are clearly entirely executed (produced using strong gold, at that point hand-cleaned) yet the mark hands of Urban Jürgensen are much more expressive – particularly the hour hand and its commonplace “eye” on the tip. Urban Jürgensen hands are handcrafted. They are developed of different parts that are separately sharpened, cleaned, gathered, and thermally blued to a predetermined shade. The steel arms of the hands are cut from uniquely chose steel and hand completed to the ideal shape and fit. Obviously, the blue shade is gotten from a warm treatment and not from a compound/painting measure (once more, that is the easy way). After cautious cleaning with progressively fine grain jewel paper, the outcome is a superb mirror polishing.
The “eye” of great importance hand is a concentrically precious stone cleaned strong gold addition, held set up by the sheer precision of the fit. The eye is planned with a lopsided calculation, by tightening the volume from the dial place towards the tip of the hand. The strong gold community canons for the hands are turned on an accuracy machine and afterward reflect cleaned (and in light of their shape, these canons must be cleaned by hand). The arms of the hands have then been painstakingly bolted set up around the canons for the ideal fit.
The tear-drop lugs
What may, from the outset, appear to be a straightforward plan component is really the result of an incredible specialized cycle and tedious human activities. Surely, the mark “teardrop lugs” of the Urban Jürgensen 1140RG are not simply hauls. In extravagance watchmaking, following an efficient mechanical interaction, hauls are machine processed out as an incorporated piece of the case (cases can also be created by means of a a stepping measure, significantly quicker and obviously cheaper). However, the “teardrop lugs” on Urban Jürgensen’s watches are individually produced, heat treated, hand-cleaned, and exclusively patched onto the watch case in a manner which makes the fastening line undetectable to the exposed eye.
Forging these “teardrop lugs” requires somewhere in the range of 5 and 8 cycles through an interaction where gradually the last type of a matched tear drop set is manufactured into shape under the tension of 50 tons. When this activity is complete, the matched carries are then isolated from their base, and painstakingly processed and hand-cleaned into the ideal fit for the case welding. The fastening cycle is an all around left well enough alone, coming about in a ideal point of all carries simultaneously – and with no obvious patching line. This cycle is done on a few materials like platinum, white gold, yellow gold or, on account of the present Urban Jürgensen 1140RG, pink gold – and obviously, the dissolving purpose of these materials is different, implying that incredible consideration should be taken during the binding process.
The hand-brightened movement
This new Urban Jürgensen 1140RG is more than just a case, a dial, carries and hands – what is named the habillage in watchmaking, or the outside pieces of a watch. This 1140RG is additionally a development, and an incredible one to be straightforward. Obviously, the restrictive Caliber P4 (fabricated by Chronode, selective to the brand) is somewhat straightforward: hours, minutes, little seconds and a traditional Swiss switch escapement (no complex detent escapement here) that beats at 3Hz/21,600vph. It highlights refinements however, like a twin-barrel (for the force save – 72h – yet in addition for exactness), a stop-second and it is changed in an exact manner. In any case, the entirety of that remains rather accidental. What makes this development deserving of interest is the completing and the decoration – and indeed Urban Jürgensen didn’t go for the simple option.
Let’s go crescendo. To start with, the Geneva stripes. They are finished by people and not by a CNC machine. Moreover, they show a particular example, emanating from the focal point of the equilibrium wheel – and this example consummately moves from one bridge to another. At that point, the inscriptions. Most developments are engraved somewhat, with the name of the production, the quantity of gems, the reference, etc… Usually, these are done simultaneously as the cutting tasks are performed to shape the scaffolds. Here, you can undoubtedly see that the one of a kind number of the watch is applied on a screwed plate, additionally enlivened. At that point, sinks and screws. Gems are embedded in cleaned sinks and screws are heat-blued and their heads are reflect cleaned by hand – indeed, something that you just find in haute-horlogerie.
Many different subtleties merit referencing, for example, the wheels with angled spokes or the fastener wheel with roundabout graining. Notwithstanding, the most striking embellishment detail on this Urban Jürgensen 1140RG (and with all watches from the brand with the Caliber P4, like the recent Jules Collection ) is the work done on the scaffolds and the anglages. Not exclusively are the edges inclined and cleaned, however there are some complex shapes with what experts call internal or sharp angles. Normally, slopes are pre-executed during the machining interaction, and afterward jewel cleaned, anyway on account of the manner in which it penetrates the metal, a machine can just make bends and not sharp points. To get this, a prepared watchmaker (the finisseur) will gradually make these sharp and sharp breaks, which are constantly seen as a proof of “hand-made” adornment. Tedious, meticulous yet bringing about a wonderful decoration.
As we’ve attempted to show here, with the assistance of this new Urban Jürgensen 1140RG, the contrast among extravagance and very good quality watchmaking certainly covers up in the little subtleties that probably won’t be noticeable from the outset. Just a nearby investigation and prepared eyes can detect these distinctions. Be that as it may, when instructed to these subtleties and to the cycles drew in to get them, you can truly value the excellence of a hand-made watch – and comprehend why they can cost 3 to multiple times in excess of a watch from a standard brand. In the current case, the 1140RG is no exemption for the standard and has all the earmarks of being a sublime old style watch, rich and cautious from the outset, anyway with a crazy measure of subtleties – and that completely legitimizes its cost of CHF 29,900 (before charges). More data on www.urbanjurgensen.com .
Technical Specifications – Urban Jürgensen 1140RG
- Case: 40mm breadth – cycle 3-piece case, with an arched bezel and fastened carries – 18k rose gold, cleaned by hand – sapphire precious stone on the two sides – 30m water resistant
- Dial: hand-guilloche brown dial – Circular brushed part ring, Hand completed guilloche dial on strong silver plate – strong gold twirly doo files – hand made steel and gold hands
- Movement: Caliber P4, exclusive – manual winding – 3Hz recurrence – 72h force hold – 32mm width x 5.20mm thickness – hand-made embellishment – hours, minutes, little seconds
- Strap: gator calfskin tie (20/16) on gold pin-buckle
- Reference: 1140RG
- Price: CHF 29,900 (ex. taxes)