The Swiss/Danish top of the line watch producer has recently revealed its new “ateliers” in the focal point of Biel/Bienne. The brand was at that point settled in the city and it is currently situated in a wonderful 1920 chateau, which has been elegantly revamped to give the ideal setting to its detail fixated specialists. We accepted the open door of our new visit to their new home to investigate the manner in which they produce hands. In the event that fine craftsmanship and a fastidious thoughtfulness regarding subtleties are clear with the brand’s watches , it is in any case enrapturing to see their watchmakers at work – in light of the fact that without question it is one of the last and not very many spots where things are as yet made thusly…
Every creation step is executed by hand, utilizing revered procedures and extremely old strategy. The careful cycle requires exactly 50 creation steps and one day of work for only one bunch of 3 hands (hours, minutes and seconds hand). This is a complex, tedious custom however the outcome is essentially stunning.
The creation measure begins by molding the hands – the shape is laser-cut from a steel strip. The unpleasant cut laser cut hands are assessed individually as the watchmaker performs deburring work, eliminating by hand any burrs lefts by the cutting process.
The hands are then sanded on their sides and surfaces, before then being fixed onto a plate, on which sanding is performed with a pencil sanding machine. The hands are then flattened utilizing tweezers; an activity that will be rehashed in the middle of most creation steps.
The following advance comprises of reaming the hand openings to the specific width into the hand pipe (group) and a hand eye (a hilter kilter gold addition) will be appended at a later stage.
After penetrating, the shape of the openings is cautiously milled. The arms of the hands are then rounded on a crushing wheel. This fragile activity should be done to give them a semi-round and hollow shape and get a completely uniform profile.
The arms are then quietly hand-polished to get an ideal shine. This is played out a few times in progression, utilizing progressively fine grain jewel paper, and afterward at long last with precious stone paste.
The hand’s tips are then hand-polished in their turns. This is performed with rough paper as well, and afterward by scouring the hand tip on a zinc plate with grating glue, a particular method that permits to keep it impeccably flat.
Cleaning is a vital readiness venture for the dye of the hands. Just a fine cleaning and an ideal cleaning of the hand would permit the specialist to accomplish a fine, customary dye. Any molecule dirtying the outside of the hand (dust, oil, and so on) can cause a lopsided dye. Cleaning is performed utilizing various showers in the machine envisioned below.
Hands are blued the customary route at Urban Jürgensen (thermally treated as opposed to synthetically blued). Dye hands requires a careful dominance of the interaction. Dye steel to a given tone must be accomplished by warming the metal to a particular point (around 300°). It isn’t just improving, as it likewise makes a defensive oxide layer on the hand, leaving the part a lot harder and ensuring it against rust. At Urban Jürgensen, they target arriving at the haziest blue, before the shading blurs and afterward goes to grey.
Bluing is performed on top of an electric warmer which is considerably more compelling than with a fire, the warmth being more standard on a level surface gratitude to an equivalent appropriation of the temperature. The metal part onto the hotplate has patterns to guarantee that there will be no varieties in the blue tone across the hands: if fundamental, the watchmaker will move the hand onto these patterns if the dye is uneven.
Once the dye has been played out, the gold hand’s line can then be riveted, a careful assignment requiring smoothness and precision.
For the hour hand, the gold “eye” is crashed into the hole effectively ready for it, and is held set up by the sheer exactness of the fit.
Once fitted onto the hand, the line and eye are hand-polished to acquire an ideal sparkle. The activity is performed utilizing better and better rough. It should be performed with extraordinary accuracy to clean the gold parts without contacting their steel support.
Obviously, producing hands this way is a tedious cycle requiring incomparable skill however the outcome is really terrific. The excellence of parts made by hand, adorned by abilities went down through ages, and performed by skilled specialists can’t be equaled by modern cycles. Each piece becomes special, the endowment of defect being genuineness. This is the genuine sign of Haute Horlogerie.
More data on www.urbanjurgensen.com .