When Karl-Friedrich Schefeule (the co-proprietor of Chopard) left on restoring Ferdinand Berthoud , perhaps the best horologist, everything being equal, his desire was clearly not to deliver a subservient reproduction of past wonders. Refining and recombining this exceptional heritage into an individual point of view, the contemporary watches bearing this celebrated name are solitary. While showing a conspicuous regard for the works of art, the Ferdinand Berthoud FB1 is a cutting edge take on this legacy. The outcome is really excellent, created and planned with demanding regard for subtleties. The GPHG 2016 Aiguille d’Or grant, quite possibly the most (if not the most) important industry awards is no little accomplishment. After white and pink gold forms , Ferdinand Berthoud is currently delivering a shocking platinum restricted release that debuted at Les Ambassadeurs, in Geneva.
The current Ferdinand Berthoud needed to make its presentation with a watch praising chronometry and accuracy watchmaking . The aftereffect of three years of R&D, its type FB-T.FC is really exceptional.
The development comprises in excess of 1,120 sections (counting more than 790 for the Fusée-and-chain framework). Its column type design, a gesture to the marine chronometers worked by Berthoud, is really stupendous, with some sort of holy inclination. In this sanctuary like development, the scaffolds are gotten to the principle plate with titanium columns, rather than having the plate and extensions screwed firmly along with hollows to help the mechanical elements.
Constant power is a sacred goal in watchmaking and chronometry. The fading main thrust conveyed to the controlling organ of the watch influences the manner in which it performs over the entire force hold. The time of swaying is influenced by the variety of the main thrust conveyed by the barrel. This drove watchmakers to plan systems to compensate for the varieties in force of the mainspring.
A fusée comprises of a cone-formed pulley, connected to a chain wound around the barrel. The fusée highlights a twisting string to get the chain. Because of the expanding outline of the string, the lessening power of the fountainhead is compensated (a lot of like the equipping of a bike). As the fountainhead loosens up, the chain moves on the barrel and off the fusée. The expanding influence of the fusée compensates for the melting away force of the barrel.
Fusée and chain instrument are complex to produce and hard to change. The Ferdinand Berthoud 28 cm chain comprises no under 474 connections, all hand amassed with 300 little pins. Its suspended development (it is gotten to the primary plate just) is profoundly original.
The fusée-and-chain includes a Maltese cross stop-work – fitted on the drum of the barrel this stuff restricts its turn, making a locking point to keep any harm from overwinding.
The development is managed by a one-minute tourbillon, another gadget to improve isochronism henceforth chronometry, neutralizing the negative impact of gravity in transit watches keep time. The huge tourbillon (16.55 mm for the titanium confine, 12mm for the efficiently molded variable idleness balance wheel) works at 3 Hz. The hairspring highlights a Phillips terminal curve.
It highlights an immediate drive second. Frequently, the one-minute turn of the tourbillon is utilized to convey a little second. The wheel straightforwardly associated with the tourbillon carriage and driving the long focal second’s hand is noticeable through a removed in the dial. It is suggestive of marine chronometers and upgrades readability. The force save sign depends on a cone-formed check. A cone goes here and there in sync with the barrel. A ruby antenna shaft slides on its surface and drives the dial side indicator.
The adornment of the development is noteworthy. To guarantee a perfect completion, the brand’s experts check their work under a x10 amplifying glass! Enlivened by Berthoud’s work, the thin, long spokes of the wheel are fastidiously cleaned. The extensions are pleasantly silk completed and sloped with straight-grained flanks. The plate and scaffolds are in maillechort. A portion of the gems are set in finely cleaned chatons.
The Ferdinand Berthoud FB1 case is detailed with an octagonal shape and an enormous fluted crown. 44mm in measurement, it is currently formed out of the noblest of metals, platinum. It is motivated by marine chronometers and their gimbal suspension. Two precise brancards are in a bad way to the case center and embracing a round tube shaped compartment. 4 sidelong windows give fascinating viewpoints on the development. The domed sapphire precious stone is without a doubt stylishly satisfying, giving a cool bending impact when you see it at a point. Turn the watch over and a sapphire display caseback gives you a first line perspective on the great hand-twisted type with its tourbillon and steady power mechanism.
The completing is first rate with faultless surfaces. The individual restricted version number is engraved on the parallel beautiful component. Important with the gold releases, the maillechort dial is silk brushed. It is made through a sensitive cycle: a solitary signal is performed to brush the dial which requires deft hands. The hours and minutes counter is dark lacquered. The recessed counter at 9 o’clock shows the force save (haut is for high, bas is for low). It is matched with knife molded hours and minutes hands and a thin focal scope seconds hand with a rich round counterweight.
Completing the look is a grand gator tie. Not that we would expect anything less from the brand. It is twofold sided croc calfskin, hand-sewn with moved edges. The security collapsing clasp is made from platinum. It is wonderfully gotten done with cleaned surfaces and perlage. It includes a comfort-improving augmentation framework that is customizable inside a couple seconds.
The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB1 in Platinum is again a restricted version of 50 pieces, evaluated at CHF 248,000/ 257,000 EUR/ 260,400 USD. More subtleties on www.ferdinandberthoud.ch .
Technical details Ferdinand Berthoud FB1 – platinum
- Case: 44 mm x 13 mm – platinum case with 4 sapphire sidelong openings and between carries artistic supplements – sapphire precious stone with hostile to intelligent covering – sapphire case back with against intelligent covering – water impervious to 30m.
- Movement: type FB-T.FC mechanical with manual winding – 35.50 mm x 7.96 mm – 53h power save – 21’600 vibrations/h – 46 gems – hours, minutes, seconds, power hold sign – one-minute tourbillon, Fusée-and-chain, Chronometer certified.
- Strap: alligator cowhide lash with security collapsing clasp.
- Price: CHF 248,000/257,000 EUR/260,400 USD
- Limited edition: 50 pieces