The SIHH 2017 ended already half a month prior, and our own Xavier a Brice previously shared their top choices of this year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. Meanwhile I’ve been occupied, among others with an excursion to the most distant north of Finland with Porsche and Porsche Design. While floating on ice with a host of 911’s, I got to experience how entirely the two brands match, and I got a parcel of active time with the 1919 Chronograph that Porsche Design presented at Baselworld a year ago. Later more about that, yet now it’s time to list my top 10 watches from the SIHH.
It was a somewhat intriguing year with numerous new models being offered at more competitive valuing; the monetary emergency, new enemy of corruption laws in China and the Swiss Franc and Euro conversion scale being detached, absolutely motivated brands to follow up on evaluating. Another fascinating topic, is that the games watch section just turned out to be more intriguing with a great deal of new models from Montblanc , Girard-Perregaux and Baume & Mercier . In the Ultra High-end segment it appears to be that brands are less influenced by the excessive costs, and the primary center remaining parts making fascinating (and now and then even useful) complications, superb hand-completing, and additional engaging designs stay key to accomplishment in this segment.
Here are my ten top picks of this year’s SIHH, in sequential specific order. Complicated watches, dress watches and game watches are all here…
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Decimal Strike
Since the German brand presented the Zeitwerk in 2009, it has been a talking piece. A particularly novel design, such novel approach to demonstrate time. It was and is a fairly unforeseen design coming from an exemplary brand like A. Lange & Söhne. After a few ringing Zeitwerk varieties, similar to the Decimal Repeater and Striking Time , the brand currently presented what could well be the best CEO’s wrist watch you can envision . The Zeitwerk Decimal Strike strikes once like clockwork, and the sound is only a delicate note, not much! This gives you an awesome sensation of how quick (or moderate) your daily gatherings pass by without taking a gander at the clock, and it will permit you to benefit as much as possible from each meeting. It comes in a stunning 18 carat nectar gold case, and with tremblage completing on the steel mallets and sledge spans, to add a hint of “handswerkskunst” to this all around powerful wrist watch.
Drive de Cartier Extra Flat
Last year Cartier presented the Drive de Cartier, and this year they broaden the assortment with a moon stage and an extra flat release. The last is somewhat more modest than the remainder of the Drive de Cartier assortment and, as the name demonstrates, extra flat. It makes an exquisite dress watch, which is slightly not quite the same as the normal exemplary balance dress watches there, and hence impeccably befits the brand that is known for their perfectly formed watches . Inside ticks the Piaget type 430P, a super flat development from the famous watchmaker that is known for its super flat watches and developments. The Drive de Cartier Extra Flat is just accessible in gold, and comes at a retail cost of approx. € 15k. Euro.
Last year Girard-Perregaux acquainted a restricted release with once again introduce the Laureato into the brand’s assortment and that all around worked up feelings among devotees of the brand. After a slight redesign and enhancing some design details, Girard-Perregaux presently presents a full line-up for the new Laureato assortment and it has never looked better. The new Laureato assortment looks extraordinary, wears incredible and comes at a somewhat charming value point (approx. € 10.000 Euro). As a perfectionist I’m satisfied to see that the new Laureato has been furnished with an alternate, bigger development (type GP1800) that impeccably finds a way into the case. At its value point the new Laureato makes an extraordinary option in contrast to the Piaget Polo S and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15400, and with that the extravagance sports watch fragment has acquired another player of importance!
IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in steel
The IWC Da Vinci assortments has known many various designs in the previous years, and with the totally new assortment, they look back to the Da Vinci assortment from the 1990’s . That assortment highlighted rather extraordinary explained and adaptable drags. Entirely comfortable on the wrist, yet perhaps not to everyone’s taste. The new Da Vinci assortment highlights carries that are propelled on the 1990’s assortment, anyway it would seem that they have done everything at the present time. The adaptable carries are entirely comfortable on the wrist, and regardless of whether your have a huge or little wrist, watches from this assortment will fit pleasantly around the wrist paying little mind to the size. The model that stood apart from the “Da Vinci” swarm was the tempered steel adaptation of the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph . The slate dark dial with sun-beam finish, brought down sub dials, and one sub dial with blue aventurine, simply works marvelous. With a retail cost of simply over €32k it isn’t precisely the deal of the week, anyway I do think it’s a reasonable cost for a particularly made and completed watch.
Laurent Ferrier Galet Micro-Rotor Montre Ecole
Laurent Ferrier is only quite possibly the most intriguing new brands with regards to the market, in any event for individuals who have a financial plan of at any rate 35k or more to spend. As far as design, style, and at any rate as significant, specialized content, they are on top of the game. Inside the new Montre Ecole ticks the exquisite miniature rotor development (in-place obviously) that includes a twofold immediate drive on the equilibrium. A specialized accomplishment that is very remarkable, and something that admirers of top of the line watches will definitely appreciate. The Laurent Ferrier Galet Micro-Rotor Montre Ecole impeccably mixes a sort of lively stylish with spotless and exemplary dress watch properties, and along these lines is an ideal allrounder that can be coordinated with all sort of exercises and outfits. Let’s say it’s a flexible watch, and its “fly under the radar” style impeccably hides the eminent “technical content” inside. Check the review that Brice did about this one that is one of my number one watches of the year.
Montblanc Timewalker Chronograph
A complete re-design of a somewhat extraordinary assortment, the Montblanc Timewalker assortment. The past emphasess adjusted between stylish, dressy, and energetic, and keeping in mind that numerous truly loved the design, it never turned into an incredible accomplishment for the brand. The new Timewalker assortment disposes of the duality, and now centers around the lively side of the assortment. By keeping a portion of the design signs, similar to the case shape, marginally recessed parts in the hauls, and the enormous numerals on the dial, it stays unmistakable as a Timewalker, anyway it likewise shows an altogether new face. A lot sportier, and now with earthenware bezel and a decision of befitting lively lashes, the new face for Montblanc comes to fruition. It goes into a market that was once overwhelmed by TAG Heuer, Omega, Tudor and IWC. Today Omega and IWC have moved to a higher fragment, with greater costs. The new Timewalker assortment comes at an exceptionally appealing value point and can without much of a stretch compete with TAG Heuer and Tudor. I think an incredible move from the brand and the €2k – €5k portion just got an extremely fascinating new player. The new Timewalker chronograph, water impervious to 100 meters, includes a large group of flawless details and comes in at a cost of €4k, while the time-just form is accessible for €3k, and the ADLC dark UTC rendition (second timezone) is accessible for just shy of €5k. Bravo to Montblanc!
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Metrographe
The Parmigiani fabricate is exceptional with their own case creators, dial producers, and obviously their own development make, named Vaucher. With solid designs like the Tonda 1950 they show that the brand has a specific satisfaction de-vivre that is so well befitting the brand. The better than ever Tonda Metrographe presently includes an extra tachymeter scale around the dial, and a major date, and by one way or another the watch currently at last looks energetic. Energetic stylish that is, as that is the style of the brand, and the quality and level of completing is still at top level. In case you’re on the lookout for an attractive very good quality games chronograph, than you ought to unquestionably examine the new Tonda Metrographe!
Piaget Altiplano 60th Anniversary 38mm
A old style take one of the of the most famous, yet appropriately understated, watches, all things considered, the Altiplano. This Piaget was and still is an ideal definition of the tuxedo/dress watch. Super dainty, refined, cautious, exceptionally elegant… Everything in this watch looks dapper. For the 60th commemoration of the model, Piaget accompanied a whole festival assortment. In any case, of every one of these oddities, one is only the ideal translation. A 38mm white gold case, a blue dial with focal cross like in the days of yore, long and slim applied markers, a straightforward and truly pertinent logo (and that’s it), sharp shape, again like the first one. Inside is the in-house calibre 430P, a physically wound ultra-slight development (2.1mm thick), which permits the Altiplano 60th commemoration 38mm to be truly what we call a meager watch. Polish to the most noteworthy level.
Ressence Type 1 Squared
I consistently had a weakness for Ressence, for this blend of exceptionally unique, extremely mechanical showcase, which permits a surprising movement of the time, without being too troublesome either, all that combined with a moderate, practically non-horological case. This was all consuming, instant adoration for me, anyway it probably won’t be for all authorities. This year, Ressence becomes more grown-up, more horological with another shape for the Type 1 : an exquisite, meager, proportional pad formed case made out of hardened steel. The Ressence Type 1 becomes more mature. It is an extremely accomplished watch, which shows an ideal execution and an exceptional reflexion on each detail – design, feeling when worn and contacted, ease of use… A yet, it doesn’t free a chomp of what made the past watches so desirable. Genuinely achieved!
Ulysse Nardin Marine Tourbillon
Since a couple of years Ulysse Nardin appears to have been completely re-invigorated and they are coming with eminent new watches at an extremely competitive valuing. A year ago the marine roused brand brought a yearly calendar into the Marine Chronograph, and they did that with no cost increment. This year they proposed a similar Annual Calendar for the Marine Manufacture Chronometer. What’s more, to top it off they presented the wonderful Marine Tourbillon , which comes in at a cost of well underneath $30,000 usd, and highlights a pristine in-house development with silicium escapement (no more issues with attraction that can influence your dearest wrist watch), a 60-hour power save and a great flying tourbillon that is obvious through an opening in the Grand Feu finish dial.