Watchmakers resemble all boys. With regards to numbers, being first or having the greatest is always better – regardless of whether having the greatest (watch of course…) isn’t always desirable. Watchmakers always searched for the most complicated watch , for the watch with the most features , for the most precise development or for the lightest case . And in any event, with regards to a particular complication, being the most accurate is an excellent marketing argument – which obviously always infers astounding technical turns of events and tremendous watchmaking abilities. As far as MoonPhase, the title for the most precise was already in the hands of Andreas Strehler , however it’s now far better with his new Papillon Sauterelle à Lune Exacte.
Technical update: the accuracy of the MoonPhase indication
What is a moon phase indication? Indeed, as we explained to you in our Technical Perspective article , a moonphase watch will in general duplicate the age of the moon, indicating it via a wheel with 59 teeth (2 x 29.5 days) that advances one tooth each a day, while two Moon faces traditionally appear, consistently, in a circular window. Nonetheless, the synodic month , the pattern of obvious moon phases, has an average length of 29.530587981 days (29 d 12 h 44 min 2.80 s). Along these lines, in most watches with a moonphase indication (meaning those that are not really precise), such mechanisms should be adjusted by one day each 2.5 year. That’s the basic adaptation. Be that as it may, watchmakers always would in general improve this display, making it as precise as conceivable. Here are some examples:
- The Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon – deviation of one day at regular intervals (with a practical extra-feature on the back)
- The Moser Endeavor Moon – deviation of one day each 1,027 years
- The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Terraluna – deviation of one day each 1,058 years
- The Ochs und Junior Moon Phase – deviation of one day each 3478.27 years
- The Christiaan Van Der Klaauw Real Moon Joure – deviation of one day every 11,000 years
All of them are amazingly great. In fact, they are exact to such an extent that it is absolutely certain that these watches will be dead, lost, broken, annihilated, sold… (and so on) before you even need to do a solitary adjustment of the moonphase indication (in the event that you imagine that they run persistently – which is obviously unrealistic, because, at least, you’ll need to support them). Whatever, the fact of the matter is clearly into the race for the numbers, for THE most precise watch. And at that game, the actual champion – which is even in the Guinness Book of World Records – is Andreas Strelher, with his Sauterelle à Lune Perpétuelle 2M. Listen clearly: this watch has a moonphase indication that will be accurate (guaranteed number) for the coming 2.060 million years. The idea of a watch will certainly have disappeared at the time you’ll need to do a solitary adjustment.
Not happy with this record and this out-of-this-world accuracy, Andreas Strehler brings now another rendition of his Papillon Sauterelle à Lune, overall as accurate as the other, however with a considerably more precise display and adjustment of the age of the Moon, intraday.
The Andreas Strelher Papillon Sauterelle à Lune Exacte
With the Papillon Sauterelle à Lune Exacte, Andreas Strehler doesn’t alter its past idea and technical arrangements, which can be found in the Sauterelle à Lune Perpétuelle 2M. His new watch is as yet overall as accurate, with a deviation of one day per 2.060 million years. The fact isn’t here. What the Papillon Sauterelle à Lune Exacte addresses are two surely understand issues: the trouble to easily and accurately adjust a moonphase indication and the exactness of the actual display, with something that gives the age of the Moon not to the nearest day but rather with an intraday scale.
Indeed, as precise as they may be, moonphase indicators cannot be read and set precisely. Because of the absence of scale next to the moonphase in most watches, the wearer has to think about what the exact phase or age of the Moon is ( regardless of whether a few brands, similar to Arnold & Son, discovered an answer for that ). Along these lines, the exact setting of the moon phase indication is just conceivable at new Moon and full Moon. Another issue comes from the clarity of the moonphase itself. Of course, with the absence of scale, you mainly have a recommendation of the age of the Moon and no precise indication, at least not as precise as time telling can be for instance. That’s where the Andreas Strehler Papillon Sauterelle à Lune Exacte rules them all, with one apparently (apparently only) basic thing: a Vernier scale (patented, of course).
The answer for exactness and accurate clarity – the Vernier Scale
At 6, the Andreas Strehler Papillon Sauterelle à Lune Exacte is furnished with another gadget, which, along with another plan and completing, makes it not quite the same as the Sauterelle à Lune Perpétuelle 2M. This twofold scale, called a Vernier Scale, shows the age of the moon in days and in hours. Consequently, It will be useful for two reasons: most importantly, the Andreas Strehler Papillon Sauterelle à Lune Exacte becomes much more precise regarding display. Obviously, the overall exactness remains the same however intrinsically, the watch will give a much more accurate indication of the age of the Moon, not to the nearest day, but rather to the nearest 3 hours.
Then, this vernier scale will make also the adjustment of the moon phase incredibly straightforward and precise. When you know the exact age of the Moon (something you can easily discover on internet…), you simply have to adjust, via the crown, the moonphase indication with the assistance of the Vernier scale, along with the classical moonphase indicator, placed on the left half of the dial and classically displayed in a semi-circular window.
On this high accuracy moon age scale, a red arrow indicates the age of the moon in days. Two red marks on the scale indicate new moon and full moon. A vernier scale on the internal vernier ring increases the accuracy of the indication to three hours. Its utilization can be summarize as such:
- The red arrow indicated the age of the moon in days.
- If the arrow focuses to a number in the blue area of the external scale, the accurate value is also read from the blue area of the inward vernier ring. The age of the moon accurate to three hours is indicated where the following mark on the vernier ring aligns with a mark on the external ring.
- These hours are added to the days indicated on the external ring.
In the same way, if the red arrow indicates a day on the yellow area of the external scale, the hours are also read from the yellow area on the vernier scale.
On our photographs, whenever we had the chance to contact and feel the Andreas Strehler Papillon Sauterelle à Lune Exacte, the age of the moon was accordingly 24 days and 15 hours (the red arrow focuses in the middle of 24 and 25 and the mark that is entirely aligned is 15 hours). What makes this watch the most precise moonphase indication at any point created is this combination of an amazingly low deviation with a very precise intraday intelligibility, combined to a great exactness of the setting. Of course, outrageous exactness in watchmaking here and there comes from relatively basic solutions… which anyway requires a tad of insight to be imagined (to say the least). For that, a tremendous bravo!
A completing to pass on for and heavenly technology
Summarizing the Andreas Strehler Papillon Sauterelle à Lune Exacte to its display of the Moon just would be benevolent of reductant. In reality, this watch has significantly more to offer than its display. Technically, we’re talking about an extremely complex watch, and regardless of whether it “only” displays the hours, the minutes and the age of the Moon, the mechanics behind it are noteworthy. Most importantly, this watch features something that you don’t find that frequently and that is incredibly complex: a remontoir d’égalité.
This mechanism – which may sound familiar to F.P. Journe aficionados – will in general convey a more constant power to the escapement, addressing one great issue of watches with a large force save. Undoubtedly, the more grounded the springs are in a watch, the more extended the force save will be. In any case, this also comes with an issue: the more grounded a spring is, the more conflicting the conveyance of force will be. At the point when completely twisted, it will convey a great deal of force. At the point when near the finish of the force hold, it will convey low force. A remontoir will smoothen the conveyance of force by putting away energy briefly and conveying it, in equal bits, to the escapement, consistently. The watch will consequently (theoretically) have the same amplitude during the whole range of the force reserve.
However, Andreas Strehler’s framework is somewhat extraordinary. Usually, the remontoir acts on the escape-wheel. In any case, this is the point in the entire development where the least force is available. Hence, Andreas Strehler’s remontoir d’égalité is attached to the seconds wheel or fourth wheel. Subsequently, the complete escapement, including the escapement wheel, oscillates liberated from any impact between the individual motivations conveyed by the remontoir d’égalité. For more detail about constant power, please check our technical guide .
Alongside these technical achievements, there’s the beauty of the execution… and what a wrapping up. The Andreas Strehler Papillon Sauterelle à Lune Exacte impeccably portrays what Haute Horlogerie is. Each and every part is manufactured and gotten done with an outrageous care, that abandons saying, by hand. On the dial side, on the nearby underneath, you can see that all the edges of the parts are chamfered and cleaned – search for instance the arm of the start-shaped wheel of the remontoir, in blued steel. The scaffold that holds the barrels (on the dial side) is featured with several internal and sharp angles, indeed something that no machine can achieve. All the gears or the smallest screws are also carrying the same attention.
The back side of the development is much more demonstrative. Both the execution and the actual plan are noteworthy. The development depends on one main scaffold, with the signature butterfly shape that can be found in most watches by Strehler. It features circular Ge,eva stripes (and not industrial ones…) as well as numerous internal angles. The pinnacle may be the brilliant wheels, with their bended spokes and their inclines, again done by hand. That is something you don’t see frequently, even in major top of the line brands. Overall, it is a feast.
Conclusion about the Andreas Strehler Papillon Sauterelle à Lune Exacte
All together, this watch consummately characterizes what top of the line autonomous watchmaking ought to be: it has innovation (the Vernier scale tackles 2 inalienable issues of the moonphase, as far as adjustment and decipherability), it has great mechanical arrangements (the remontoir d’égalité), it has a remarkable plan (the shape of the case or the butterfly-shaped scaffold on the caseback), it has the real haute-horlogerie completing and it has the selectiveness. The best comes from the actual easiness of the watch: not very huge, not very extraordinary, not complex to utilize or understand. This beauty has a cost (heavy without a doubt however merited): 112,000 Swiss Francs in 18k red gold and 125,000 Swiss Francs in platinum (costs before taxes). More details here .
This watch has even been chosen for the GPHG and it will compete in the category “Calendar” against 13 different watches ( see them here ). It genuinely has the right to win something there – regardless of whether many of the watches chose also have their chances.
Specifications of the Andreas Strehler Papillon Sauterelle à Lune Exacte
- Case: 41mm x 37mm case, 10mm stature – 18k red gold or 950 platinum –Sapphire crystals on the two sides – 30m water resistant
- Movement: Caliber Sauterelle Lune Exacte, in-house – hand winding –78h force hold – 21,600 vibrations/h – Hours, minutes, remontoir d’égalité, moonphase with Vernier scale
- Strap : hand-made alligator strap with gold or platinum pin-buckle