At the SIHH 2017, Cartier presented a watch that I considered a hit (this remaining parts obviously close to home), the Drive de Cartier Extra Flat . Thin, refined, exquisite, consummately proportioned, including a decent engine… Still, this watch may be tricky for a few. Clear explanation: its cost. (It’s just accessible in gold.) Then, it very well may be excessively spotless, excessively basic for a few. Notwithstanding the current models (time-and-date and double time), Cartier presented a Moon Phases rendition of the Drive, which made many of these arguments be resolved.
After a couple of long stretches of wavering, and watches that were excessively ladylike or unisex (counting endeavors that neglected to stir enough feelings, like the Clé de Cartier ), Cartier announced its comeback to the market of men’s watches at the SIHH 2016, with the Drive – and with it, the re-visitation of what Cartier is known for, the dominance of formed watches. The Drive de Cartier, presented first as expected and-date and double time (plus a fairly confidential and not-so-important tourbillon version), was a declaration to the brand’s DNA, with a watch that was not round, not squared, not tonneau… but molded like no one but Cartier can do . Exquisite, manly, refined, unadulterated, somewhat vintage and somewhat engine situated: a gentlemen’s watch.
After these first releases in the assortment, the SIHH 2017 was the event of developments, including the (as I would prefer) amazing Extra Flat form – and obviously, as usual, it tagged along a couple of issues. While this thin release of the Drive may be more modest, more exquisite and fueled by a Piaget development, some won’t like its moderately plain dial – there are just 2 hands – making it too understated and some won’t have the option to bear the cost of it – as it is just accessible in gold (white or pink) beginning at EUR 15,000. In any case, this was by all account not the only Drive introduced at the 2017 watch reasonable. Another, totally offset and with barely enough complications was presented, the Drive De Cartier Moon Phases.
No large dramatization with the Moon Phases rendition, as the basics of the Drive assortment are as yet present, anyway this new cycle gains in equilibrium and balance, something that was presumably absent on the two other standard versions, time-and-date and double time. For example, the time-and-date form needs to deal with a date window at 3, which affects the evenness of the dial. The double time, with its enormous date, its retrograde second time-region sign and a day-and-night window will satisfy a few, and others will despise its occupied and deliberately imbalanced dial. The Drive De Cartier Moon Phases tackles this, with a completely adjusted and balanced dial.
In terms of case, no advancements. The Moon Phases release adheres to the 40mm pad formed box. Accessible in steel this time – and furthermore in 18k pink gold – it estimates 12.15mm in tallness, implying that it won’t be a thin watch on the wrist. Notwithstanding, as normal with Cartier, the case has been designed to be comfortable and to feel slimmer than it is on paper, with generally thin casebands – the thickness is placed on the domed caseback. Short and bended drags help to situate the watch on the wrist, which is more rich and dressier than expected.
Dial-wise, we note a couple of advancements, obviously driven by the execution of another complication. Instead of the little second is presently a moon phases sign, with a traditional blue and gold moon plate. Not any more second hand, nor a date window, implying that this Drive De Cartier Moon Phases profits by an entirely adjusted dial, balanced on the 12-to-6 pivot. Besides, the moon complication adds a touch of poetry to the watch, which combined with the nonattendance of seconds hand makes it an intentional lethargic sprinter. The dial keeps the Cartier credits: wave guilloché design in the middle, huge Roman numerals in dark (with secret mark at 7) and blued hands.
Inside the instance of the Drive De Cartier Moon Phases is a similar base development as the remainder of the assortment, which means the programmed Caliber 1904 MC, an in-house developed and made development. This notable motor was the primary development totally made in-house via Cartier. It is imparted to the energetic Caliber de Cartier. It sits as a mid-range type, with prevalent completing (compared to the section level 1847 MC ) and highlights a twofold barrel, for an expanded accuracy and a 48-hour power reserve.
With this new Drive De Cartier Moon Phases, the Parisian Maison may have the most pertinent and most adjusted variant of the model: exquisite, unmistakable and adjusted, both outwardly and monetarily, as valued at EUR 7,600 in steel and EUR 20,400 in 18k pink gold. More details on cartier.com .
Technical Specifications – Drive De Cartier Moon Phases
- Case: 40mm x 41mm x 12.15mm – treated steel or 18k pink gold – cleaned and brushed – sapphire gem on the two sides – 30m water resistant
- Movement: Caliber 1904 LU MC – in-house – programmed – 4Hz recurrence – 48h force hold with twofold barrel – hours, minutes, moon phase
- Strap: gator calfskin tie, steel or gold collapsing buckle
- Reference: WSNM0008 (steel) – WGNM0008 (18k pink gold)
- Price: EUR 7,600 (steel) – EUR 20,400 (18k pink gold)