2017 has been a significant year for the Seiko Group. In reality, we’ve seen numerous noteworthy watches being delivered by the Japanese assembling, and new patterns coming – including some vintage-motivated pieces, like the 62Mas reedition or the Enamel Presage assortment . This year was likewise prominent on the grounds that Grand Seiko watches won’t have Seiko any longer composed on their dial, as GS is becoming a brand all alone. To stamp this development, the recently presented brand introduced a recreation of the first since forever Grand Seiko watch , and today we take a gander at the yellow gold adaptation, a.k.a. the reference SBGW252… And what a watch it is!
From 1960 (the year Grand Seiko was introduced) until mid 2017, Grand Seiko was a sub-division of Seiko Watches, such a top of the line sub-brand inside the assortment. As of now, Grand Seiko will presently don’t be considered any longer as Seiko yet as a brand all alone. A pleasant method to try not to confound section level jump watches with these eminently made bits of fine horology. Since let’s be clear, Grand Seiko watches are on a standard with the absolute best Swiss extravagance fabricates. The account of GS began in 1960, with a first watch made with precision, unwavering quality, fine execution and rich plan at the top of the priority list – you can see it here . At Baselworld 2017, the brand introduced an assortment of 3 watches (platinum, yellow gold and steel versions) propelled by this first model, a traditional, rich, magnificently nitty gritty and exact watch.
The model we see today is the “intermediate” form (in terms of price), made in 18k yellow gold – while the first 1960 variant was in gold-plated steel. Notwithstanding, regarding soul and plan, this watch is really devoted to the model that roused it. Shape, style, details… The ancestry is more than simple to spot, yet Seiko added an entirely dosed trace of innovation, basically regarding measurements. The 2017 Grand Seiko reference SBGW252 has a 38mm measurement (as restricted to 36mm for the 1960 version), which can be considered as amazingly controlled extents in view of today’s norms. Combined with a moderately slight profile – 10.7mm thickness – the SBGW252 wears like a dress watch should.
The acknowledgment of the case should quietness any skeptics, with greatly executed cleaned surfaces. Points are sharp, lines are entirely straight and its surfaces are flawless… so, in the vein of Grand Seiko watches. The general plan of this recreation of the first Grand Seiko watch is marginally vintage-motivated, yet not obsolete. It’s a work of art, immortal plan that is made to last. Nothing too extravagant or lost on the whole case. One lament for some will be the plain caseback, so there’s no perspective on the development. Then again, this strong back is applicable with the “reedition” idea of this watch.
Small subtleties can be detected in general, including the “medallion” on the back, engraved with the noteworthy logo of the brand. It shows a decent pounded surface, which can be seen on the clasp as well. The Grand Seiko SBGW252 is conveyed on a decent quality crocodile calfskin lash, yet the marginally shiny surface didn’t fully convince me – however that’s a simply a tie, and it tends to be changed inside a couple of moments. Nothing that can divert from all the extraordinary, yet prudent subtleties on this watch.
The most pleasant piece of this Grand Seiko SBGW252 obviously is its dial. Not that the case isn’t pleasant, but rather it is exemplary. The dial, then again, is simply brilliant (yes, I utilize the word “superb”). Regardless of whether you take a gander at the hands, at the records or the logo, everything is completely executed. On this 18k yellow gold form, the “Grand Seiko” logo (note the shortfall of the “Seiko” logo) is raised and coordinates the case’s material. A more critical look uncovers an exact decorating. Likewise, the lists are faceted and cleaned (their shape indistinguishable from the 1960 model) and, once more, are impeccable. Much the same as the 1960 model, the “Diashock” engraving is obvious at 6, close by the quantities of gems in the development (although here, there are 24 of them and not 25 like the 1960 edition).
What strikes most is the hand-set, as consistently with Grand Seiko, and this reference SBGW252 is no exemption for the standard. Their sharp plan traces all the way back to the first since forever Grand Seiko and has become a mark shape as the years progressed. Totally cleaned on this rendition (some GS watches have a brushed surface), they have extremely sharp edges and a perfect surface. These hands alone have consistently been to me the principle motivation to get a GS watch… The accuracy of the assembling cycle is essentially dazzling. See the point by point photograph below:
Inside the instance of the Grand Seiko SBGW252 is a hand-wound development, something very abnormal for GS. Notwithstanding, this is a verifiably important element, as the first Grand Seiko watch additionally included a manual type (Grand Seiko just began to utilize programmed developments in 1966). This recreation is fueled by the calibre 9S64 (as referenced, not obvious on through the caseback). This development beats at a 4Hz recurrence and is antimagnetic to 4,800 A/m (amperes per meter). It has a comfortable 72h (3-day) power save and its improvement is in the vein of a large portion of the GS watches, which means clean and pleasantly executed. On this 18k gold form, the development is changed in 6 positions, and regulated within – 3 and +5 seconds per day (meaning within the COSC principles, regardless of whether this watch isn’t chronometer rated). The platinum version is regulated between – 1 and +5 seconds a day.
Overall, the Grand Seiko SBGW252 is an eminent exemplary watch with family. Considering its cost of 21,700 Euro, it isn’t modest compared to a portion of the Swiss competitors. Notwithstanding, realizing that solitary 363 pieces will be created (as well as 1960 pieces in steel and 136 pieces dressed in platinum), it must be considered as a collector’s watch. More subtleties on www.grand-seiko.com .
Technical Specifications – Grand Seiko SBGW252
- Case: 38mm breadth x 10.7mm tallness – 18k yellow gold, cleaned case – sapphire precious stone on the dial side, strong gold back – 30m water safe (additionally accessible in 950 platinum and steel)
- Movement: Calibre 9S64, in-house – controlled inside – 3/+5 seconds every day – hand-wound – 4Hz recurrence – 24 gems – 72 hours power hold – hours, minutes, seconds
- Strap: crocodile cowhide lash with 18k yellow gold pin buckle
- Reference: SBGW252 – restricted to 262 pieces
- Price: 21,700 Euro
- Availability: as of March 2017