For a couple of years now, Patek Philippe has been applying a fairly astounding methodology, by offering another, more youthful methodology. In some cases vintage, now and then current, and here and there very hard to see, even some of the time controversial… This all begun back in 2014 with the cutting edge looking treated steel 5960/1A, followed later in 2015 with the dispatch of the Calatrava Travel Time Pilot 5524G , a vintage-roused watch, significantly unique in relation to the customary traditionalist Patek assortments. Also, on the off chance that you blend these two watches, you’ll end up with the 2017 Patek Philippe Chronograph Annual Calendar 5960/01g.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 5960
This reference is surely among the main present day Pateks… If it has consistently been generally welcomed and had in every case some way or another flown under the radar, it must be reminded that, when it went ahead the market, the 5960 was a major first for the brand. Before this ref. 5960, at Patek, the calendar connected to a chronograph was consistently an interminable one (since the 1920s with the well known ref. 1518 to the real ref. 5270 ). In any case, Patek is additionally known for being the innovator of another sort of quantième, the annual calendar, a half breed between the basic date and the costly and complicated ceaseless calendar.
So, Patek thought of a groundbreaking thought: a calendar that is destined to be (nearly) as useful as a QP however safer, more basic, more solid and for the most part, more available. In 1996, they licensed a calendar watch that necessary just a single amendment a year, at the progress from February to March, implying that it was automatically perceiving 30-and 31-day months. This complication was first appeared on the 18k yellow gold ref. 5035.
Later, in 2006, Patek added this annual calendar interestingly to another complication, this time a chronograph. What’s more, as said, it was additionally the first occasion when that a chronograph was connected to some other calendar than a QP. This new combination was presented on the Ref. 5960P-001 (platinum version), however, this was not by any means the only curiosity on this watch. Indeed, it was additionally the principal ever self-winding chronograph created and fabricated in-house by Patek. It includes an annual calendar by means of three windows for the date, the day of the week and the month at the upper portion of the dial. Likewise, it includes a day/night marker situated inside the monocounter at 6 alongside a force save pointer at 12.
Several forms, in white gold, rose gold or platinum would be made somewhere in the range of 2006 and 2014, so, all things considered the valuable metals were supplanted by spotless steel… The ref. 5960/1A was without a doubt disposing of the gold or platinum cases for a more normal metal, alongside an astonishing (unexpected, controversial) dial, in white and numerous with shaded accents. An exceptional change in the assortment, and we’d need to trust that 2015 will see the annual calendar/chronograph combination coming back in valuable metals, despite the fact that with another reference, the 5905p, with a bigger instance of 42mm (instead of 40.5mm). The 5960 proceeded with its way in the current assortment, with an extra dark dial… until Baselworld 2017, when Patek brought back white gold on the model, but again a very astonishing plan. That was the 5960/01g, and here is our interpretation of it.
The 2017 Patek Philippe Chronograph Annual Calendar 5960/01g, with its astounding Vintage twist
So what do we have with this new white gold form of the Patek Philippe Chronograph Annual Calendar? Indeed, essentially, the same old thing, as all the overall credits of the Ref. 5960 are back in their typical structure. The case, regardless of whether presently made in 18k white gold rather than treated steel (after the white gold adaptation was removed… I know, complex story) is equivalent to we’ve seen since 2006. Same shape, same curved bezel and same measurements. The showcase is additionally totally indistinguishable from the steel forms of the 5960 and the development, as you’ve speculated, is likewise a similar type CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H (seriously, even BMW simplifies names…) So, truth be told, this new 5960/01g is only a corrective update… But one that is very astounding in the details.
If the comeback of white gold is something that some will like – the thought of a valuable metal case very fits Patek, and a few gatherers incline toward the heaviness of gold rather than steel – the technique of Patek with this watch is very hard to understand… Launched in platinum, at that point in white or pink gold, at that point gold and platinum was suspended and supplanted by steel, at that point a bigger adaptation comes with platinum once more, and now white gold comes back on the old reference! It’s more complex than a drama. Yet, enough about the reasons why… Let’s see this watch for what it is, as obviously, it has some solid arguments.
The most remarkable change, other than the white gold case – again, with similar measurements as all the past versions of the 5960, which means 40.5mm distance across x 13.5mm thickness – is the new dial. With this 5960/01g, Patek applies a similar thought similarly as with the Calatrava Travel Time Pilot 5524G , which means a dark blue, grained stained dial with white gold lists. The entirety of this is combined with a vintage-propelled, earthy colored calfskin tie, with a pin-clasp rather than the typical deployant clasp.
Overall, this new style makes an exceptionally intriguing compromise between the extremely traditional early releases of this watch (see the 5960p beneath, with dark dial) and the perhaps too lively steel renditions. Moreover, the decision of calfskin befits very well the watch and makes this Patek somewhat more youthful, somewhat trendier. Also, I won’t complain about not having the completely cleaned metallic wristband, as it’s generally very sparkly and too visible.
Even with this slight vintage feel, the white gold 5960 clutches a portion of its cutting edge and lively credits, specifically the exceptionally differentiated white calendar windows and chronograph scales (at 6), the enormous, straight and iridescent hands, just as a couple of hints of red on the focal second hand and the 30-minute counter. Shockingly, if the entirety of this is equivalent to the two steel forms, the blue dial makes it more inconspicuous, as all the tones and differentiations mix better in the worldwide design.
A few advancements can be seen working on this issue as well, primarily in the mushroom pushers, that include a guilloche design, suggestive of certain vintage watches of the brand. The rest, which means the shape (bended hauls, arched bezel), the completely (perfectly) cleaned finish or the screwed back are for the most part indistinguishable. The white gold offers a somewhat unique equilibrium on the wrist, with more weight.
Under the sapphire caseback is the notable calibre CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H. This was the previously coordinated programmed chronograph development of Patek, and since its presentation, it has likewise advanced into the Nautilus (although without the calendar indications). This development has an advanced design, with the chronograph and oneself winding instrument being completely important for the development (and not added on top of a current development, in a particular way). The chronograph includes a flyback work, and is constrained by a section haggle vertical grip. It has a 4Hz recurrence and it boasts between 45-55 hours of force save, contingent upon how long the chronograph is kept running.
Patek’s customary completing has been applied, which means cleaned slanted points, roundabout Geneva Stripes, cleaned screw-heads and spaces and round graining on the principle plate. It is guaranteed by the Patek Philippe Seal , that likewise affirms the exactness of the watch (normal of -3/+2 seconds per day). All the calendar signs, which means the redresses for the afternoon, the date and the month, are done through recessed pushers put on the left half of the case.
Overall, this Patek Philippe Chronograph Annual Calendar 5960/01g is only an upset – from the start. Truth be told, it must be viewed as a component of the “new Patek”, which makes a couple of counterbalance watches that discussions to more youthful, more dynamic gatherers. On the off chance that the steel forms were marginally dubious and not embraced by all Patek fans, this new white gold adaptation with blue dial feels significantly more natural, and it keeps the typical PP polish, combined with a very much dosed vintage contact and some advanced and easygoing components. It is estimated at CHF 58,000. More subtleties on patek.com (check their new website…)
Technical Specifications – Patek Philippe Chronograph Annual Calendar 5960/01g
- Case: 40.5mm width x 13.5mm tallness – 18k white gold, completely cleaned – sapphire precious stone on the two sides – 30m water resistant
- Movement: calibre CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H, in-house – guaranteed by the Patek Philippe Seal – programmed, coordinated chronograph – 4Hz recurrence – up to 55h force reserve
- Functions: hours, minutes, annual calendar (day, date, month), power hold, day-and-night sign, flyback chronograph with focal second and monocounter at 6 (hour long and 12-hour)
- Strap: calfskin earthy colored tie with white gold clevis prong buckle
- Reference: 5960/01g-001
- Price: CHF 58,000