While extravagance for the majority can now and again be noisy and abundant, legitimate top of the line, selective and hand-made watches don’t need such bounty. As we generally will in general exhibit here, at Monochrome-Watches: “the fallen angel is in the details”. A garde-temps can be obviously basic, nearly moderate, yet look nearer and it can uncover unbelievable, yet practically impalpable, subtleties that make it definitely more valuable than a jewel cleared, full gold watch. As we previously announced , Urban Jürgensen watches are to be set in such a classification, and the new Reference 1142 with Grenage dials may even push the thought one stage further.
At first sight, in the same way as other different watches made by the brand, these new Urban Jürgensen Reference 1142 are straightforward, traditionally planned and could well stay unnoticed by non-insiders. Their dials are obviously smooth and level (but you’ll see, they are the complete opposite), the showcase is about practice and, regardless of whether marginally bigger than the standard dress watch, they essentially fly under the radar. Don’t misunderstand me, this is an exceptionally certain point.
Collectors who purchase such watches are careful individuals, with a feeling of class and subtleties, and they search for such misrepresentation of reality. They are presumably slightly more developed in gathering watches. Nonetheless, those up to date will rapidly perceive that something in these watches merits that we set aside the effort to take a gander at them intently. Never disregard the details…
What we have here is a couple of watches, both equivalent taking all things together angles, except for the case material. One is 18k pink gold, the other is 950 platinum. Discussion shut. Additionally, the base for this new release is notable at Urban Jürgensen, as we’re acquainted with the Reference 1142, essentially a bigger and all the more currently proportioned form of the “1140” we audited here , and furthermore definite there . As is commonly said, we are in a natural area – an exceptionally pleasant region however. The principle advancement we are seeing today is the expansion of new dials, with a particular completing strategy named “grenage” or “grené dial“, which could seriously be converted into English by a grained dial.
The Grenage dial
As you can see on this somewhat wide picture, the dial of this Urban Jürgensen Reference 1142 shows up very straightforward and not that complex regarding execution. Just a slight surface can be seen, and dark Roman numerals and tracks could well be moved on top of it. Right… Sorry to declare to you that you’d not be right to think so! Truth be told, regardless of whether undeniably less definite, from the start, than a guilloché dial – which is commonly known as perhaps the most complex procedures to make a dial, along with cloisonnée veneer for instance – the grenage completing applied here is in any case profoundly tedious and requires some genuine abilities to be accomplished appropriately. A nearby picture will help…
Grenage dials originated in the last part of the 1800s, be that as it may, this dial making strategy is seldom utilized these days – or possibly, it is seldom utilized in the manner in which Urban Jürgensen does it. Truth be told, it may have been nearly deserted essentially on the grounds that more present day strategies considered an outwardly –not that- close result and on the grounds that, notwithstanding the sublime outcome, it is a serious attentive embellishment. Nonetheless, when finished with cutting edge techniques, the outcome is worth it.
The grenage strategy is a particularly hand tailored interaction dial by dial. Each dial starts with a plate of strong fine silver, on which are made super fine inscriptions for the numbers and markings. The recessed etchings are hand loaded up with finish, and in the wake of solidifying, the veneer is cleaned with jewel paper, to leave its buildup in the sections. As you can find in our pictures, the logo, the numerals and the various tracks are without a doubt somewhat recessed and they carry a fascinating alleviation to the dial.
The grenage layer is then assembled bit by bit as a blend of silver, salts and different fixings is hand-brushed onto the individual dial. By electrochemical response, the surface arises as a delightful brilliant/chilly surface with a special granularity that no modern cycle could accomplish. The outcome is incredibly fine, nitty gritty and exuberant, with an attractive sparkle. Nonetheless, compared to other grained dials, the grenage method takes into account extraordinary details.
Overall, the outcome is a dial that looks amazingly cautious and rich, anyway one which uncovers numerous subtleties on nearer assessment. Obviously, it’s considerably more subtle than a guilloche dial –, for example, this one – and will presumably require being plainly disclosed to be valued for what it is. Then again, compared to the traditional, very old fashioned guilloche dials offered by the brand, these new grenage dials offer a sleeker, yet marginally vintage look to the watch, which befits the bigger instance of the Reference 1142.
The Urban Jürgensen Reference 1142
About the actual watch, this Urban Jürgensen Reference 1142 is fundamentally a bolder, marginally bigger rendition of the notable Reference 1140. It here highlights a 42mm case (rather than 40mm), yet the plan and the completing are equivalent. We find again the wonderfully formed case, dear to UJ, with ventured bezel and these shocking tear drags that are independently produced, heat-treated and afterward hand-cleaned prior to being separately welded onto the watch case.
The grenage dial is matched with the typical mark hands of the brand. Trust us, these hands show some genuine craftsmanship… indeed, to such an extent that our own Xavier composed a 1,000-word article just about them and the manner in which they are made . A few stages are required: laser-cut, processed, framed, hand-cleaned and blued by heat, with a hand-cleaned gold “eye”, these hands are uncommon and superb.
Inside the instance of the Urban Jürgensen Reference 1142 is the restrictive P4 type (produced by Chronode, and elite to the brand) with manual winding. This enormous twin-barrel development offers a 72 hours power save and runs at 21’600 vibrations each hour. Regardless of whether it is traditional as far as details, this development is magnificently improved: hand-made Geneva stripes, gems embedded in finished sinks and screws heat-blued, with their heads reflect finished by hand, wheels with sloped spokes, ratchet wheel with round graining, edges of the scaffolds that are chamfered and brightened with anglages, including inside points that must be finished by hand (with a wood stick and precious stone glue). Generally, a wonderful haute-Horlogerie decoration.
This new form of the Reference 1142 is about differentiation, fine watchmaking, conventional procedures and retrained extravagance. It never shouts its family, yet it has the right to be noticed intently. Celebrated fashioner Charles Eames said once “The subtleties are not the subtleties. They make the design“. He may have cherished these Urban Jürgensen Reference 1142 with Grenage Dials.
Price: 27,900 Euro in 18k pink gold and 42,000 Euro in platinum (costs before charges). More subtleties on www.urbanjurgensen.com .
Technical Specifications – Urban Jürgensen Reference 1142 with Grenage Dial
- Case: 42mm distance across – 950 platinum or 18k pink gold,
- Movement: Movement P4 – restrictive – hand-wound – 3Hz recurrence – 72 hours power save – hours, minutes, little second counter
- Dial: Single piece strong silver hand tailored Grenage dial
- Strap: Alligator calfskin tie (20/16) with pin clasp – collapsing fasten optionnal
- Reference: 1142
- Price: 27,900 Euro (pink gold) – 42,000 Euro (platinum) – before taxes