Today we close our three-part arrangement on the Patek Philippe Calatrava with a gander at the present-day models as of now accessible from the brand. Subsequent to understanding Part. 1 (focussing on the absolute first model of the assortment, the reference 96) and Part. 2 (the main vintage models) , I’m certain you will concur that the humble Calatrava is perhaps the most notorious dress watches ever and has assumed a huge part in molding the whole dress watch classification. Inconceivably, its hidden plan has remained generally unaltered since its presentation in 1932, around 85 years prior. While it’s actual we’ve seen numerous varieties throughout the long term, the basics have consistently continued as before, which is extraordinary information for vintage devotees and new purchasers alike.
According to the authority Patek Philippe site, there are 21 diverse Calatrava models at present accessible for men (this incorporates various metals and avoids complicated models), nonetheless, the “Calatrava” area on the PP site just spotlights on time-just models, while the assortment likewise incorporates more complicated watches like the Regulator Annual Calendar Calatrava (5535g) or the Pilot Calatrava (5524g). For our motivations, be that as it may, we’re simply going to zero in on six explicit models in this article, which we think gives a decent cross-segment of the current assortment and show the flexibility of the Calatrava.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196
In the current Calatrava line-up, there are seemingly two models that draw the most motivation from the first Ref. 96 ; the Ref. 5296 (see beneath) and the Ref. 5196, consequently the not-so-unpretentious utilization of ’96’ in the reference number. Introduced in a marginally bigger, more modern 37mm case, the Ref. 5196 is the ideal illustration of rich straightforwardness. Regardless of the bigger measured, nonetheless, the case is as yet constructed a similar way, with coin-edge precise and level bezel on top of a slim case with incorporated carries. The design of the dial is practically indistinguishable from the Ref. 96, with hours and minutes showed midway by dauphine-formed hands, crystal molded hour files and little seconds appeared on a sub-dial.
Unlike the Ref. 96, in any case, the sub-dial presently sits over 6 o’clock, though in the first model it sat between the hour records at 5 and 7 o’clock separately. Inside is the hand-wind Caliber 215 PS, estimating simply 2.55mm thick and beating at a consistent 28,800vph. Four unique renditions are accessible; white gold, yellow gold, rose gold and platinum. My most loved is the platinum variant, which includes a 2-tone shiny dark dial and gold applied Breguet-style numerals (which is suggestive of a few forms of the ref. 570 ) rather than the crystal molded hour markers of the 3 others, yet entirely precise truly talking – once more, especially along these lines as the first Ref. 96.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5296
The other reference most like the first Ref. 96 is the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5296. This arrangement is comprised of four models, including two unique dials and case metals. The Ref. 5296-010 is the quintessential revamp of the Ref. 96 with roundabout seconds that we discussed in Part 1 . Albeit now, obviously, it includes its own in-house development, the programmed Caliber 324 S C, complete with Gyromax® equilibrium and Spiromax® balance spring. The dial highlights dauphine-molded hands and crystal formed hours like the Ref. 5196.
However, the primary advancement compared to its sister the 5196, is that it likewise incorporates the additional usefulness of a date window at 3 o’clock, which was assuredly excluded from the first Ref. 96. The Ref. 5296-001 in the mean time, includes an in vogue area dial, in two-tone shimmering dark, with blue features for the areas and the hands. As indicated by Patek Philippe, the plan of this model is motivated straightforwardly by the Ref 96 SC from 1934. The two models are offered in a somewhat bigger 38mm case in your decision of one or the other white or rose gold.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5116 and Ref. 5119
The Calatrava Ref. 5116 and Ref. 5119 are the modern-day exemplifications of the first Ref. 3520 we talked about in Part 2 . Dispatched in 1973, this model was the first to highlight the Clous de Paris guilloche – or hobnail, as it is better known in English – bezel, which has since become so firmly connected with the Calatrava. Offered in somewhat more modest 36mm cases, both the Ref. 5116 and Ref. 5119 are controlled by a similar Caliber 215 PS as the Ref. 5196 above.
The Ref. 5119 is accessible in your decision of white gold, yellow gold and rose gold and highlights a white lacquered dial with dark Roman numerals, while the Ref. 5116 is accessible solely in rose gold and highlights a flawless finish dial with dark Roman numerals, making this watch undeniably more selective than different models (also additionally pricier).
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6006G
The Ref. 6006G Calatrava was one of Patek Philippe’s debuts for Baselworld 2017, and is the third era in an arrangement that made its introduction in the mid 1990’s. This most recent model replaces the Ref. 6000G, which was brought into the assortment in 2005. Without question, it is one of the more unconventional models in the Calatrava line-up, with an unmistakable dial design including an internal part ring for the hours and minutes and an external section ring for the date, which is shown by hand.
The other brand name of this arrangement is, obviously, the auxiliary seconds dial, bizarrely positioned somewhere in the range of 4 and 5 o’clock, a plan idiosyncrasy of the type 240 PS development inside, which is praising its 40th commemoration this year. The two-tone dial, white against a differentiating dark foundation, is exceptionally clear and still channels the Bauhaus ethos of structure following capacity, which directs the plan of all Calatrava models. Introduced in a bigger 39mm case in white gold, it’s much modern and wearable by the present guidelines yet maybe doesn’t offer a similar immortal allure as other Calatrava models.
Patek Philippe Calatrava “Squelette” Ref. 5180/1R
As I referenced over, 2017 imprints the 40th commemoration of the Patek Philippe type 240 PS. As part of the festivals, Patek disclosed the new Calatrava “Squelette” Ref. 5180/1R in 18K rose gold at Baselworld 2017, putting the development on full presentation so anyone might see for themselves and appreciate. Expertly skeletonized by Patek’s craftsmans, the plate is open-worked even over the barrel, uncovering the looped fountainhead underneath the punctured form of the Calatrava cross. It takes over seven days to make the straightforwardness of the development before it discovers it way onto the workbench of the etcher who goes through as much as 130 hours designing the excess constructions with distinctive arabesques and volutes.
The “Patek Philippe Genève” brand mark is engraved on the excess parts of the barrel outline around the Calatrava cross, which itself is additionally improved. At long last, the whole skeletonized development undercarriage is plated with rose gold and afterward cleaned to coordinate the case and wristband. Outlining this is a development holder ring in 18K rose gold, which has been skeletonized down to 12 spokes that fill in as hour markers. Not the inconspicuous, downplayed kind of Calatrava we’re accustomed to seeing maybe yet a totally dazzling masterpiece all the same.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524
Finally, we come to what in particular has been the most contentious Calatrava (and maybe even Patek Philippe?) model of late years: the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524 . Dispatched at Baselworld 2015, this model made moment buzz and a ton of discussion. For some, it is difficult to consider this as a Calatrava by any stretch of the imagination, given that it is introduced in a 42mm case (produced using 18k white gold, not steel as you may expect), and includes a subsequent time-region sign complete with day/night pointers and two lockable pushers on the left-hand side of the case. All things considered, military style watches are not completely remarkable in Patek Philippe’s history, and truth be told, we even referenced the Pilot dial Calatrava Ref. 96 in Part 1 .
Likewise, there are as yet numerous Bauhaus components to the Ref. 5524, like the unmistakable textual style, the convenience and the profoundly useful nature of the watch. It may not resemble the customary Calatrava we are utilized to, yet it actually follows large numbers of similar standards and rules. Inside is the programmed type CH 324 S C FUS, which offers a 45-hour power save and is enhanced with the Patek Philippe seal, affirming the excellent undeniable level completion and exactness the development offers. Is it a genuine Calatrava watch, notwithstanding? That is dependent upon you to choose, in view of all that you’ve learned in the wake of understanding this and Part. 1 (focussing on the absolute first model of the assortment, the reference 96) and Part. 2 (the main vintage models) .
We trust you have made the most of our profound plunge into the famous Calatrava assortment and we anticipate perusing a greater amount of your comments and feedback.