François-Paul Journe has consistently been somewhat separated in the watchmaking business. However, the greater part of his watches are effectively conspicuous and are imbued with an unmistakable, particular DNA. In any case, a particular arrangement of watches doesn’t regard the standard; the Vagabondage watches. Completely unique case, totally various presentations, altogether extraordinary philosophy… 2017 imprints the appearance of a third tortue-cased watch, the F.P. Journe Vagabondage III (which we previously appeared to you in video here ). An awe inspiring watch and the first-ever mechanical watch with advanced bouncing seconds. Furthermore, today, we investigate it.
A arrangement of three watches, as a journey through time
The story of the Vagabondage arrangement of watches is slightly
- The F.P. Journe Vagabondage I – Digital Hours
The Vagabondage Series began with 3 watches. No more. Prior to the actual presence of the Vagabondage I, F.P. Journe did undoubtedly make 3 phenomenal watches with a level Tortue case (licensed model – the informal story says that this case was first intended for Cartier, which rejected it), an advanced/meandering time show and a dial without signature (this non-marked dial will remain part of the soul of the Vagabondage watches later), for the 30th commemoration of Antiquorum (subsequently in 2004) Journe delivered 3 Unique Pieces (one in white Gold, one in yellow Gold, and one in rose Gold), and all with metal development. Antiquorum auctioned them in kindness of ICM , a Paris-based exploration office works in the battle against mind and spinal line infections. These 3 watches caught the interest of people in general, and sold for multiple times the gauge (63,250 CHF for the white gold, 66,700 CHF for the yellow gold, 80,500 CHF for the pink gold)
After these three watches Journe made two Limited Editions that where made somewhere in the range of 2005 and 2006: a 10-piece restricted release in platinum and set with loaf precious stones, and a 69-piece restricted version of similar watch however then without jewels. Both component developments in 18k gold, something François-Paul Journe is currently known for. Aside from the typical Tortue case and the non-marked dial, the Vagabondage I likewise highlighted a very unexpected display, something that Journe never did – even the engineering of the development was somewhat special. Prominent in the dial is the directing organ, which oscillates at a pace of 21.600 beats each hour. This is a standard escapement without a winder carriage fitted (not to be mistaken for some different watches with focal tourbillon).
The time show of the Vagabondage I is the thing that Journe calls “meandering” (which may clarify the name of the watch…). It depends on initial a hopping hour. A window “catches” an hour imprinted on a pivoting plates. At that point, these two (the upper circle with the white window and the dark plate with the hours) will travel all around the dial for the coming hour, pointing the moment on a traditional track on the fringe. The outcome is in fact straightforward and clear, yet the specialized arrangements are a long way from being not difficult to actualize. However, François-Paul went further again with a subsequent watch, the Vagabondage II.
- The F.P. Journe Vagabondage II – Digital Jumping Hours and Minutes
The second Vagabondage release was made in 2010 – 69 pieces dressed in Platinum, 68 pieces in red Gold and 10 pieces dressed in Platinum with loaf precious stones are created. This Vagabondage II is an alternate vision of the “wandering”/“vagrancy” thought of the time. Rather than an advanced bouncing and meandering hour, François-Paul Journe made a watch with hopping signs, both for the minutes and the hours, with the assistance of three autonomous circles. Likewise, the Vagabondage II highlighted a little second sub-dial and a force reserve.
The 18k gold development was in part obvious behind a smoked sapphire gem on the dial side. It was a physically wound type, this time with traditionally poistioned directing organ (not any more in the focal point of the dial any longer, yet on the rear of the watch). The sign were all edify by a silvered-connect on top. On account of the complexity of these signs and the issue of force the board, Journe needed to build up a particular barrel and a remontoir d’égalité, giving better energy the executives to the quick bounce of the minutes and hours (a remontoire isolates the torque going to the equilibrium from the varieties in the going train brought about by hopping the disks).
After that, we needed to stand by 7 additional years to see the resurgence of the Vagabondage idea, again another presentation and diversion while in transit to demonstrate the time. This watch is the F.P. Journe Vagabondage III, it is greatly excellent and actually noteworthy, just like the principal ever mechanical watch with advanced hopping seconds.
The F.P. Journe Vagabondage III – Digital Jumping Hours and Seconds
Such a watch has the right to be found in real life, along these lines the video underneath will give you a superior enthusiasm for the presentation and crafted by this Vagabondage III.
Before delving into all the subtleties of this watch (and there are many), it must be says; this Vagabondage III is a sublime watch, both outwardly and actually. It combines an extraordinary polish (not a surprise…), a solid specialized content (expectable from François-Paul Journe) and enough “controlled originality” to be viewed as a genuine “indie watch”, without being excessively hostile. So what is the F.P. Journe Vagabondage III? It is the third cycle in a progression of watches that must be seen separated from the remainder of the standard assortment. As should be obvious, it is a similar vein as the past one; same tortue case, same in general style for the dial and an equivalent thought of the sign of the time, in light of hopping plates, with advanced signs. Anyway here, it brings something new (and uncommon), an advanced hopping second showcase. It’s a world’s first, and trust us, in the event that it has never been done, it is on the grounds that accomplishing this complication was a genuine specialized challenge.
- The plan and looks of the F.P. Journe Vagabondage III
No dramatization here, the third form of this watch is on the whole focuses dedicated to different watches. Much the same as the watches Journe presented in 2004 and 2010, the case depends on a level tortue shape. The dial and the bezel are on an equivalent level, while being encircled by a huge cleaned slope that makes the casebands and the carries. The differentiation between the brushed surface of the bezel and the serious shine cleaning of the environmental factors accentuates this particular and rich shape (which is protected by Journe). The case is fairly little on paper, as estimating 45.2mm x 37.6mm. However, as consistently with molded watches, the measurements are to be considered in an unexpected way. Such watches have an alternate presence on the wrist, as affirmed again with the Vagabondage III. However, it remains completely wearable as a dress watch, even with this particular shape that quickly set it apart.
One astonishing particular about this watch is about thickness. In fact, with a particularly specialized content, you could envision it to be fairly thick. You’d not be right. The Vagabondage III estimates just 7.84mm, making very even on the wrist, exquisite and wearable as a tuxedo watch. This case’s tallness is significantly more great when you think about the thickness of the development (5.88mm), implying that the case and its sapphire precious stones have been diminished to the base, to monitor a smooth profile. Numerous watches with a 3mm thick development don’t accomplish a general thickness of 8mm, which makes the Journe quite well conceived.
The Vagabondage III comes in two tastes: a cool, practically specialized looking 950 platinum form, with coordinating dial (69 pieces in Pt) and a warm, valuable 18K red gold adaptation, again with a coordinating dial (68 pieces dressed in gold). The execution and gathering of the case are very exact, refined and lovely. No discussion about the genuine of the craftsmanship. Both form come on an attentive dark croc calfskin tie with collapsing clasp coordinating the case.
- The show of the F.P. Journe Vagabondage III
This where the story starts to be appropriately fascinating for us, watchnerds. The F.P. Journe Vagabondage III to be sure highlights an uncommon complication, the main computerized bouncing second in a mechanical watch. In reality, if bouncing hours and hopping minutes are highlights that have just been actualized (particularly the bouncing hour, which is a practically customary complication), the bouncing seconds has never been applied in a mechanical watch. We’ve seen a few endeavors, for example on the Harry Winston Opus 3 (brought about by Vianney Halter, completed by Renaud Papi), however it was just a jumping seconds commencement throughout the previous four seconds of every moment. The Vagabondage III does it in a ceaseless way. For what reason is it the principal mechanical watch with such showcase? The appropriate response is primarily about energy the board and reliability.
In old style mechanical watches, the seconds are displayed by means of a hand, which turns once each moment and that is driven straightforwardly by the second’s haggle second’s pinion. This haggle pinion are driven themselves by the departure wheel, making it straightforwardly coordinated into the development, without the need of an additional stuff train (at any rate in many watches). Besides, on the grounds that it is a hand, it is light. At last, since it pivots continually, it doesn’t burn-through much energy. In any case, for bouncing signs, there must be a capacity of energy and a delivery at an exact second to make the hop. For example, with regards to bouncing hours, a spring is strained during an hour and when it arrives at a specific pressure, the energy will be delivered, making the circle jump.
For the Vagabondage II, on the grounds that the bouncing sign was the moment, Journe chose to add a remontoir d’égalité, which put away energy during one moment and delivered it to take the circle leap. One moment was sufficiently long to store energy without influencing the chronometry of the watch. In reality, taking a plate leap requires very some power, and that timespan was fairly long. However, with regards to the hop of a circle each second, the arrangement becomes very complex.
For the Vagabondage III, Journe depends on a similar sort of development, with a remontoir d’égalité, which is anyway managed to deliver its force each second. However, this is complex, basically on the grounds that the time frame to store energy is short (just 1 second) and that essentially needs to get a great deal of energy straightforwardly on the stuff train. For that, the movement relies on a long edge spring, catching and delivering a defined amount of energy consistently, barely to make the plate jump. This remontoir additionally permits to keep a constant amplitude yet to be determined wheel. The other circle, the one that deals with the 10th, is driven straightforwardly by the fundamental seconds plate and has no mechanical connection with the development. Other than this complex component and the troublesome energy the board of the Vagabondage III, the development stores an inexact 40-hour power save (longer than the 30 hours of the Vagabondage II). This is because of the single barrel that encases two springs rather than one.
The rest of the showcase depends on a deviated design, with a hopping hour plate (illuminate by a trapezoidal window at 9h30) and a traditional moment hand pivoting once each hour, with a round moment track surrounding the dial. At last, a force save marker sits outside the smoky dial at 1. The format some way or another reviews the new Elegante 48, with the incorporation of a round dial into the tortue-molded window (even the state of the case is utilized on this watch).
There’s no uncertainty to have. This presentation with advanced bouncing second is dazzling. It gives the Vagabondage III a steady action and makes you take a gander at it for a few seconds with no explanation by any means, expect examining the expressive dance of the seconds plate. On that point, it is a genuine achievement. Presently, the lone concern we have is about dependability. In fact, such a component is complex, delicate and could probability make gratings and wear on the parts (I said potentially). The two watches we took care of were entirely useful and we envision that Journe seriously tried the watch.
- The development of the F.P. Journe Vagabondage III
The development of the Vagabondage III depends on the one of the Vagabondage II, yet profoundly altered to coordinate the hopping second capacity and the new presentation. The situating of some essential components are the equivalent (balance, escapement, barrel and stuff train) and the format of the scaffolds is fairly close. However, this development (Caliber 1514) has been deeply modified to have a one-second remontoir d’égalité, another barrel and a shiny new top module to drive the showcase. As said, power hold is roughly 40h and the escapement beats at 21,600vph, with a variable dormancy balance wheel.
In the vein of all developments made by Journe, extensions and principle plate are made from 18k pink gold and enlivened with extraordinary consideration: roundabout grained base plate, Geneva waves on scaffolds, chamfered and cleaned inclines, cleaned screw heads, chamfered slots… The best comes from the shape, as the development has been imagined as needs be to the state of the case, and from its thickness, beneath 6mm.
The F.P. Journe Vagabondage III is a great watch, which feels accomplished, fundamentally in light of the fact that it figures out how to proceed with the arrangement and to cause it to advance in a specialized manner, with no deficiency of polish and differentiation. it is a totally composed duplicate, which combines specialized content, mechanical accomplishment, a controlled flightiness and eliteness. Without a doubt, this watch is elite, not just as a result of its cost (54,000 Swiss Francs in red gold, 56,000 Swiss Francs in platinum), not just due to its restricted creation (69 pieces dressed in platinum, 68 pieces in red gold) however predominantly due to the manner in which it will be accessible for collectors.
Indeed, need will be given to proprietors of the two first releases of the Vagabondage, who will actually want to aquire the watch with the indistinguishable restricted arrangement number and metal. Gatherers should demonstrate proprietorship, by showing the watch to the shop. At that point, if a few watches are not sold thusly, different gatherers will be permitted to get one. Selective indeed. www.fpjourne.com .
Specifications of the F.P. Journe Vagabondage III
- Case: 45.2mm x 37.6mm x 7.84mm – 950 platinum or 18k red gold, cleaned and brushed – sapphire gem on both sides
- Movement: type 1514, in-house – physically twisted – 40h force save – 3Hz recurrence – Barrel with twofold spring, one-second remontoir d’égalité
- Display: advanced hopping hours, minutes, computerized bouncing seconds, power reserve
- Strap: croc cowhide lash with collapsing clasp