Today is the authority opening of the London-based watch show, Salon QP. This implies we’ll see oddities from a portion of the 50 watch brands uncovering there. Initial one to shoot is Schwarz Etienne , which discloses some new forms of its fascinating La Chaux-de-fonds Tourbillon Petite Seconde Retrograde – one steel with blue Lapis Lazuli stone dial version and one white gold with blue Opal stone dial. Sumptuous dials, decent finishing and complex movement… Overview!
While the brand actually remains very calm, the Schwarz Etienne La Chaux-de-fonds Tourbillon Petite Seconde Retrograde is a watch that some of you may have seen previously, as our own Xavier introduced it to you on Monochrome as of late . As a reminder, the account of Schwarz Etienne goes as far back as 1902 when Paul Arthur Schwarz and his significant other Olga Etienne founded a fabrique in La Chaux de Fonds, combining their two family names. Paul Schwarz Etienne, and afterward his descendants, at last possessing brands like Alpha and Venus. Schwarz Etienne was additionally engaged with assembling exercises for noticeable customers like Dunhill and Chanel.
In the mid-2000s a financial specialist, Raffaello Radicchi, put resources into restoring this extremely old legacy and in 2008, Schwarz Etienne set in motion a plan to develop and deliver developments in-house. The idea was to develop a modular group of types, consistently with a similar fitting type, even with the adjunction of extra capacities. This prompted the presentation of the MSE (Manual Schwarz Etienne) type in 2012, trailed by the presentation of a few new watches, including this, the Tourbillon Petite Seconde Retrograde.
This Tourbillon Petite Seconde Retrograde by Schwarz Etienne is their most complex watch to date. Furthermore, indeed, it is a significant complex watch, which underlines the flexibility of the first development of its base development. Not at all like the many watches that large numbers of us couldn’t want anything more than to wear with the drawback up, just to have the option to contemplate the development more than the sign of the time, the Tourbillon PSR is only that and displays the time in a genuinely mechanical climate. Indeed, the whole development is switched. The entirety of the standard components found on the caseback side are here introduced as part the dial.
As you can see on the pictures, the Tourbillon Petite Seconde Retrograde uncovered its development on the dial side, albeit not as on a skeleton watch, however in a more conventional way, with components obvious between the scaffolds. A nearer examination at the dial uncovers: the miniature rotor at 9, the large barrel (that brags 72 hours power reserve) simply in the center of great importance and moment dial (slightly noticeable, yet not all that much to keep a decent decipherability of the time), the tourbillon, which pivots counterclockwise (reversed development obliges) and there’s something captivating over that tourbillon…
Indeed, as demonstrated by its name, the Schwarz Etienne La Chaux-de-fonds Tourbillon Petite Seconde Retrograde coordinates a unique and precisely intriguing display of the seconds. Fabricated straightforwardly regarding the Tourbillon, a snail cam (colimaçon for those anxious to assemble their French watchmaking vocabulary) is mounted on the tourbillon arbor. A wrench gear lays on this cam while the framework is tensioned with a spring made by E2O Innovations ( sister company of Schwartz Etienne ). The component, subsequently, considers the little second hand to progress along a circular segment and afterward suddenly hop back to recommence at the beginning point.
Those with have developed information in watchmaking will effectively contend that such a device might actually influence the right running of the tourbillon, by making grindings or burning-through a portion of the force. Indeed, this retrograde second framework is very clever. Because the cam is formed with a continually expanding width, there is little unsettling influence in the best approach to Tourbillon is running, albeit the retrograde seconds is mounted straightforwardly on its arbor. In this regard, Schwarz Etienne reports that the amplitude misfortune is under 10%, which permits the tourbillon to work efficiently.
As for today’s matters, Schwartz Etienne presents two new forms of the Tourbillon Petite Seconde Retrograde. The first has the 44mm case created in steel and shows some dial rings made in turquoise-blue Lapis Lazuli stone (the lighter of the two versions). The second new release of this Tourbillon PSR is made in 18k white gold and highlights dial rings of blue Opal stone (the hazier of the two). Both component a development with anthracite covering and are worn on black croc cowhide lashes, with sewing and crocodile lining coordinating the shade of the stones.
These two new Schwarz Etienne La Chaux-de-Fonds Tourbillon PSR will be obvious at QP 2017 as of this evening. Prices are CHF 65,500 for the steel adaptation and CHF 99,900 for the white gold version (prices inc. taxes). For more data, visit www.schwarz-etienne.com .
Technical determinations – Schwarz Etienne La Chaux-de-Fonds Tourbillon Petite Seconde Retrograde
- Case: 44 mm – treated steel or 18k white gold – sapphire gem – engraved case back with opening on the tourbillon – water impervious to 50m
- Movement: TSE122.00 – 30.40 x 7.05 mm – mechanical with automatic winding (miniature rotor) – min. 72h power hold – 28,800 vibrations/h – 40 gems – topsy turvy sign of the hours and minutes, retrograde seconds, one-minute tourbillon
- Strap: crocodile tie with gator lining, collapsing clasp coordinating the case material
- Price: CHF 65,500 for the steel rendition – CHF 99,900 for the white gold edition