As we approach the finish of every year, the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) function happens in Geneva. The supposed Oscars of the Watchmaking Industry, the occasion praises the best watches of the year – the most exceptional, the most inventive, and the most innovative watches – just as the altogether best in show, the Aiguille d’Or. Today we’re ready to bring you, hot off the press, the complete rundown of finalists chose by the Jury. Just six watches stay in every one of the twelve classifications and, while the last jury choice may be given on November 8, 2017, we would already be able to give you the full rundown, our impressions and our typical forecasts about the conceivable awarded watches.
- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold
- Chanel Première Camelia Skeleton
- Chopard Imperiale Moonphase
- Fiona Kruger Petit Skull “Eternity’
- Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Metropolitaine Selene
- Urwerk UR-106 Flower Power
This year, the “ladies” class will address very some variety, with watches which go from a famous and rather manly 1970s design (Audemars) to the lavishness of independent watchmakers (Fiona Kruger with her strong skull watch, or Urwerk and their complex UR-106). Obviously, a portion of the symbolic Maisons are available, with intriguing, yet traditionally executed watches (Chanel, Chopard). And keeping in mind that this classification is generally saved for watches with a “standard” development and show (complex ones will enter the “High-Mech” class), there are now very some amazing mechanics here. Our estimate would go to something somewhat extraordinary, possibly Urwerk, albeit the Royal Oak Frosted Gold and its greatly executed case could take the show.
- A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moonphase
- Chaumet Creative Complication Colombes
- Claude Meylan Tortue ‘Petite Fleur’
- Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye Celestial
- Graff Mastergraff Floral Tourbillon
- Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Automate
In the “Ladies High-Mech” class , the GPHG will grant ladies’ watches that are momentous regarding their mechanical inventiveness and complexity. It implies that a wide range of complications are acknowledged here (while there is a limit of just 2 straightforward complications in the “Ladies” class). The choice this year in this class is fairly homogenous, with a large portion of the watches having a somewhat “girly” style – botanical topic, poetical style and loads of precious stones – while just one appears to be fairly innocent, the A. Lange & Söhne. This is the reason our forecast for the best “Ladies High-Mech” watch of 2017 will be for the Lange 1 Moonphase, positively the one that better mirrors the latest things and tastes of modern women.
- A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moonphase
- Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic
- Grand Seiko Recreation of the First Grand Seiko
- Greubel Forsey Signature 1
- Slim d’Hermès l’Heure Impatiente
- Voutilainen 28ISO Enamel
This “Men” classification has consistently been an intense one at the GPHG, and the 2017 release is no exemption for the standard. Here, competing watches must comprise two and no more of the accompanying signs: date, power save, exemplary moon stage, computerized or retrograde time show. That implies that we generally have a wide choice, as you can find in the 2017 edition. There is the excellence of the hand-finishing of Greubel or Voutilainen, development with Bulgari, elegance with Seiko and Lange, and one of a kind complication with Hermes. Considering the accomplishment that this Bulagri Octo Finissimo Automatic addresses (the most slender programmed development available), our conjecture for the “Men” prize goes to this striking and modern creation.
- Fabergé Visionnaire Chronograph Ceramic
- Longines Avigation BigEye
- Montblanc 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition 100
- Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Chronor Anniversaire
- Singer Reimagined Track 1
- TAG Heuer Autavia
The “chronograph” class is consistently a highly challenged one at the GPHG. Indeed, this complication is an exemplary among the business and positively perhaps the most pursued kinds of watches. Notwithstanding, while there are 6 pieces chosen for the current year, 2 of them, the Fabergé and the Singer, are really controlled by the equivalent (crazy) development, developed by JM Wiederrecht and Agenhor. While the Tag Heuer, the Montblanc, the Longines and the Parmigiani are altogether incredible pieces, the GHPG likewise means to commend the excellence of watchmaking. Hence, it is applicable to give this “Chronograph” grant to the Fabergé or the Singer, essentially in light of the development that ticks inside these watches – with perhaps a little inclination for the lively and cool look of the Singer…
Tourbillon and Escapement
- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph
- Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Skeleton
- David Candaux 1740 The First 8
- Haldimann Central Balance Pure H12
- Louis Moinet Mobilis
- Ulysse Nardin Marine Tourbillon
In this “tourbillon and escapement” classification , the GPHG will choose the best watches of the year which comprise at least one tourbillon and additionally a unique escapement. No curve balls at that point to see very complex watches here – a tourbillon-chronograph, the slimmest skeletonized tourbillon development, a watch with a halfway mounted equilibrium wheel or a twin-tourbillon with robot. However, among these six amazing watches, one could well be the decision of the jury: the David Candaux, essentially on account of the crazy degree of completing, of the first engineering of the development and furthermore in light of the fact that it is the main watch this extraordinary watchmaker has dispatched under his own name.
- A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar
- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
- Delma Klondike Moonphase
- Greubel Forsey QP à Equation
- Krayon Everywhere
- Zenith Chronomaster Grande Date Full Open
For once, crafted by the Jury has been simple… Indeed, the “calendar” class comprised just 6 recorded watches, implying that every one of them really proceeded through to the last choice. In this classification, we find mechanical watches comprising at any rate one schedule or potentially galactic complication. Obviously, not all are brought into the world equivalent, as there’s a straightforward schedule watch, a complete schedule with chronograph, a yearly schedule, two never-ending schedules, lastly such a UFO, the Krayon, with a worldwide calculation of dawn and dusk time. As said, the GPHG will in general commend the excellence of watchmaking and advancement, at that point all things considered, the last victories here – yet the Greubel Forsey QP additionally deserves it, or should it be the AP and its incredible design…
- Czapek Tourbillon Suspendu ‘Ici et Ailleurs’
- Frédérique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture
- Hublot Big Bang Unico GMT
- Louis Vuitton Escale Time-Zone Blue
- Manufacture Royale ADN
- Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde
The “Travel Time” classification focusses on mechanical watches showing a few time regions. However, the choice feels very limited here, with watches that vibe old style in their signs and execution. No complex world-time watches, no uncommon method to show the time-regions, indeed, it very well may be one of the less difficult classifications this year. In spite of the fact that the Parmigiani Fleurier, regardless of whether very traditional, is indeed wonderful as far as design, with an undeniable elegance.
- A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual Pour le Mérite
- Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance
- Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Supersonnerie
- Chopard L.U.C. Full Strike
- Girard-Perregaux Planetarium Tri-Axial
- Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600
The “Mechanical Exception” class is such a no-restriction one. Here you can discover watches highlighting a unique mechanism, like a creative or refined showcase, a robot, a striking or some other acoustic capacity, or an extraordinary horological idea. Also, unmistakably, the GPHG 2017 doesn’t disillusion here. Practically every one of them could well be awarded… The Lange for the excellence of its development, the Armin Strom for its inventive and eminent Resonance escapement, the AP for making the Super-Sonnerie idea so limited, the LUC Chopard for being quite possibly the most creative moment repeaters and the Vacheron for being perhaps the most progressive galactic watches on the market… Prediction: a colossal battle in the Jury space to decide which ought to be the winner!
- Bulgari Octo Roma
- Habring2 Erwin
- Hermes Arceau TGM Manufacture
- Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon GMT Black
- Seiko 62Mas First Diver’s Re-creation Limited Edition
- Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chrono
The “Petite Aiguille” classification is somewhat unique at the GPHG, as it is the just one with an emphasis on the cost. Here, there are just watches with a retail cost of under CHF 8,000. And keeping in mind that smartwatches are permissible in this classification, we’re glad to see that none was chosen. This may sound straightforward, anyway it is quite possibly the most contested classifications, as this value level presumably addresses 90% of the creation. The last determination is very heterogeneous this year, with various styles, a few complications, and watches from various skylines (Japan with Seiko, independent watchmakers with Habring2). Furthermore, indeed, we would be glad to see the Seiko winning the prize, as quite possibly the best vintage-reissues of the year, and from another country than Switzerland.
- Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m Diver’s
- Hublot Techframe Ferrari Tourbillon Chronograph
- MB&F HM7 Aquapod
- Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph Rally Timer Counter Limited Edition 100
- Tudor Pelagos LHD
- Ulysse Nardin Marine Regatta
In this “sport” classification , the GPHG chooses watches connected to the field of sports, whose capacities, materials and design are fit to proactive tasks, concerning example here there are two jump watches, two hustling chronographs (one even has a tourbillon), a regatta chronograph and even a horological UFO with nautical roots, the MB&F HM7. Also, think about what, this watch could well be the one this year, in the “Sport” class – subsequent option would be the Ulysse Nardin, as most likely the cleverest regatta watch found in a long time.
- Audemars Piguet Diamond Outrage
- Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery
- Chanel Les Eternelles de Chanel Camélia Secret Watch
- Chaumet Frise Divine
- Chopard Lotus Blanc Watch
- Piaget Hide & Seek Manchette
In the “jewellery” classification , the GPHG chooses watches demonstrating excellent dominance of the specialty of gems and pearl setting. No compelling reason to say that we’re in a world of immoderation and extraordinary extravagance. While we have low to zero insight here, at Monochrome-Watches, with such pieces, we realize that our own Roberta Naas was very sure with the Bulgari introduced here. Also, I would actually grant the Audemars Piguet Diamond Outrage, basically for being the most preposterous of them all.
- Chopard L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony
- Hermès Slim d’Hermès Promenade de Longchamp
- Chaykin Joker
- Piaget Altiplano Art & Excellence quill marquetry
- Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Copernicus divine circles 2460RT
- Voutilainen Aki-No-Kure
Again a classification that lessly affects the general public, anyway one that shows probably the oldest procedures in watchmaking. Here, we have watches which demonstrate extraordinary dominance of one or a few imaginative methods, for example, plating, lacquering, etching, guilloché… This year’s choice contains some wonderful watches, and any of them could potentially be awarded during the service – special notice to the Chaykin Joker watch, since it watches out of this world in all these delicate pieces.
And what might be said about the Aiguille d’Or?
This is the huge one. The “Aiguille d’Or” is a definitive prize at the GHPG, such a most amazing aspect show, just the watch that the Jury believes is the most agent of the year. Normally, this prize goes to complex, high-evaluated watches with developments or a particular highlights – the Ferdinand Berthoud in 2016 , with its complex fusée-chaine development and denoting the restoration of the name Berthoud, the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision in 2015, the Breguet Classique Chronometrie in 2014 or the GP Constant Escapement in 2013. In the event that we think considering congruity, we could anticipate that the prize should go to the A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph, the Armin Strom Resonance, the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia, the MB&F HM7 Aquapod or the David Candaux watch.
Such a watch makes sense for the Aiguille d’Or… on the off chance that we view the GPHG as the festival of watchmaking. All things considered, the Oscars of the Watchmaking Industry are likewise done to praise the best watchmakers! However, I for one might want to see something else this year. Why not the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic, as regardless of whether it has just 3 hands and is valued at around CHF 12,000, it includes the most slender programmed development at any point commercialized. Or then again why not something significantly more open, like a Tudor or a Seiko, similarly as an acknowledgment that the business should zero in additional on openness. Furthermore, why not a watch for ladies, who are time and again failed to remember in the watchmaking business. Regardless of whether the GPHG has a mission to celebrate watchmaking and the watchmakers, it could likewise be an approach to spread a somewhat unique message…
Details about the GPHG 2017
- Date – the Prize-Giving service will be held at the Théatre du Leman, in Geneva, on November 8, 2017
- Exhibitions – where the competing watches will be shown – details here
- Milano – October third and fourth 2017
- Mexico – Berger Joyeros: October twelfth and fourteenth 2017 – SIAR (Salón Internacional Alta Rellojería México): October seventeenth and eighteenth 2017
- Taipei – October 26th and 27th 2017
- Geneva – Musée d’Art et d’Histoire (MAH) – November first to twelfth 2017
- Dubai – during the Dubai Watch Week – November seventeenth to twentieth 2017
- More details – www.gphg.org