The Doxa SUB-300 is viewed as quite possibly the main watches of unequaled among the plunging community. Dispatched in 1966, it was positively not the primary jump watch (see the 1953 Blancpain Fifty Fathoms or the 1953 Rolex Submariner ), in any case, it was one of the principal professional plunge watches and, for that by itself, it is historically significant. This year, Doxa follows up the achievement of 2016’s sold-out 50th Anniversary SUB 300 Professional with another vintage-reissue, this time bearing the well known Aqua-Lung logo. Here’s the Doxa SUB-300 “Black Lung”, an accolade for a super uncommon 1967 vintage Doxa prototype.
Some History – the Doxa SUB-300
The idea of the jump watch, and we mean a watch explicitly created to satisfy the requirements of professional jumpers (which was the situation during the 1950s until the 1970s, prior to plunging computers emerged), started to arise after World War II when the mission to understand the quiet submerged world appropriately began. Obviously, a few past endeavors existed, by changing existing watches into instruments ready to withstand the water pressure (think Panerai). Notwithstanding, it is just in 1953 that observes totally created considering submerged investigation went ahead the market – with the 1953 Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and the 1953 Rolex Submariner . All the business heavyweights would before long enter on this specialty however developing business sector, by introducing their own vision of plunging devices: Omega with the 1957 Seamaster 300, Seiko with the 62Mas, and numerous others. Doxa went ahead the market later however, despite the fact that when they did it was with a watch that would make all in all an impression.
As one of the heads of Doxa Watches, a certain Urs Eschle concluded that that brand needed to build up its own vision of a jump watch, a piece that will before long be known as the SUB-300. He chose to begin without any preparation as opposed to duplicating different makes, so he set up an examination group with a few professional jumpers and experienced watchmakers. The objectives for the exploration group were clear: building up the primary moderate games jumper watch for relaxation and professional jumpers; a dependable, comfortable, reason constructed and exceptionally intelligible piece of equipment. The Doxa Sub was acquainted with people in general at Baselworld, in spring 1966 – see our article Historical Perspective – The Doxa Sub 300, The Dive Watch Personified .
The 1966 Doxa SUB-300 presented another case design, a enormous hardened steel tonneau case (case measurements by a long shot surpassing the standard elements of the regular watch cases at that time). This kind of case gave improved assurance, avoiding any effects submerged and furthermore secured the crown of the watch. The second fundamental oddity, which would become a mark configuration highlight of Doxa, was the orange dial. While during the 1960s, most plunge watches were black, Urs Eschle chosen to rethink the dial, using a splendid shading dial with larger than average radiant markers and unmistakably separated hands (the minute hand being the most significant here). To test the readability of the dial submerged, Neuchatel Lake was the most reasonable spot for this reason. The exploration group tried a few brilliant dial tones. Orange has demonstrated to be the most brilliant and the best clear tone down to a profundity of 30 meters underwater.
Finally, there was the bezel… the just component of a plunge watch that is controlled by the jumper submerged or more all, it is the shield of his security (in request to figure the length of plunging meetings and decompression stages). Doxa came up with a saw-tooth edge for ideal grasp with gloves or wet hands, and a unidirectional pivoting bezel that took after the US Navy No-decompression plunge table. Consequently, the jumper could see initially time markings as well as the connected profundities at which he could remain prior to decompressing. The Doxa SUB-300 was conceived and turned into a symbol among the plunging community.
The 1967 Doxa SUB-300 “Black Lung” made for Aqua Lung
“Aqua-Lung” alludes to a commercial name made in 1943, when two Frenchmen, engineer Émile Gagnan and Naval Lieutenant Jacques Cousteau, built up the principal framework to make underwater investigation conceivable. This gadget, an independent submerged breathing device (or “SCUBA”) is presently commonly alluded to as a plunging controller or request valve. Today, the brand keeps on being the main worldwide originator and producer of jump and water sports gear.
After Doxa dispatched their first plunge watch at Baselworld 1966, under the name SUB-300, they collaborated with Aqua Lung to make an exceptional prototype, the Doxa SUB-300 “Black Lung”. This watch, bearing all the credits of the SUB-300, contrasted from the typical release by its yellow and black Aqua Lung logo imprinted in the lower left quadrant of the orange dial. Due to this particular logo, the watch acquired the epithet “Black Lung” by authorities, and is a watch that is presently very uncommon and profoundly looked for after, as just a small bunch were at any point created. After this prototype, the US Divers company began to disperse DOXA watches. A few releases of the SUB-300 or other Doxa watches will later convey the US Divers/Aqua Lung logo on the dial. In the end, US Divers and Aqua Lung would merge into one company under the Aqua Lung name.
Today, this uncommon and collectable prototype Doxa SUB-300 “Black Lung” (which likewise turns out to be the first watch with the Aqualung logo, as a proof of reliability) is commending its 50th commemoration, making the ideal event for the brand to dispatch a devoted restricted release, following the successful 2016 sold-out 50th Anniversary SUB 300 Professional .
The 2017 Doxa SUB-300 “Black Lung”
No enormous shock with this vintage-reissue Doxa SUB-300 “Black Lung”. It is completely, altogether, and impeccably Doxa for what it’s worth. Everything is here: the state of the case, the solidness of the development, the mark orange dial, the bezel with explicit scale, the accuracy of the movement… and for the event of this restricted release, the renowned, significant and alluring “Aqua Lung” logo on the dial. Also, by and large, there are barely any concessions to advancement. What’s more, this is actually why this watch was the ideal base for a restricted run.
The new Doxa 300-SUB Black Lung happens vintage allure, and reissues all the notorious highlights found in early SUB-300 models and, obviously, in the uncommon prototypes appeared previously. The case first. Much the same as early models, the 2017 variant of the Black Lung is worked around a solitary square of tempered steel, considering one objective: insurance. Don’t look for polish, it’s about utilitarian – and this is additionally why Doxa watches are so cool.
Measuring 42.5 mm in breadth, and 13.4 mm thick, it remains profoundly wearable due to its shape, which sits well on the wrist and, on the opposite of what the specs let you envision, it is more compact in the metal. As referenced, it’s about insurance here: the crown is embedded into the caseband, the bezel is definitely less huge than the defensive groups of the case and the monoblock development abstains from any distending parts… The completing of the case, then again, is exact and all around made, with round brushing on top (following the state of the case) and sides that are cleaned. All points are smooth and neat.
The development, get together and completing of the instance of this Doxa 300-SUB Black Lung, regardless of whether it is made in a utilitarian manner, is without question. It feels and is unshakable, all around collected (nothing feels unbalanced or flimsy) and you can feel that this watch is made to be a dependable instrument that should withstand the hard existence of a piece of jumping gear. A gesture to past, the bezel is altogether directs comparable toward vintage models of the SUB-300, with its twofold scale (“no-deco” feet graduation on the fringe and hour long scale on the inside side). The rugged saw-tooth edge is still set up and considers an ideal grasp. The bezel has a twofold completing, with cleaned and brushed surfaces, much the same as vintage models, and the scales are engraved, so no danger to see them disappear.
As consistently with the brand, the Doxa 300-SUB Black Lung has a bizarre, remarkable character that comes from the odd extent between the size of the case and the width of the dial. On the off chance that this outwardly makes the watch bigger than it truly is, and for sure outwardly huge, this case/dial proportion is important for the vibes of the watch. The dial of this “Black Lung” is again incredibly dedicated to the first model, as it comes with signature brilliant “professional” orange tone, on which black markers and engravings have been printed. The difference offered is great and takes into consideration a moment clarity. The fundamental particularity of this version being, obviously, the “Aqua Lung” logo seen somewhere in the range of 7 and 8 – once more, much the same as the vintage release of the SUB-300 Black Lung.
The hands have been marginally refreshed compared to the vintage models, with a bigger size yet a similar by and large plan, and with brief hand that’s at all important focal point. Lists and hands are liberally loaded up with white super-luminova, and not with a false patina hued radiant paint – a decent alternative for two reasons: this would look peculiar with the orange dial and such paints are less compelling with regards to sparkling in obscurity. Once more, this 2017 Doxa 300-SUB Black Lung is made in view of professional use and few concessions to mold. The date window is still set up at 3 and the “SUB 300 professional” engraving can be seen at 4. The dial is set under a profoundly domed “bubble” sapphire precious stone, presumably the solitary current part of this watch, regardless of whether the shape reviews vintage plexiglass crystals.
The Doxa 300-SUB Black Lung is joined to the signature “beads of rice” arm band which tightens to a coordinated wetsuit augmentation. In the event that the general development is present day and exact, with by and large a thickness far prevalent from the first 1960s variants, we likewise have the wonderful sensation of gracefulness inborn to this sort of arm band. Furthermore, on the whole objectivity, the appearance of this wristband is simply madly cool.
Behind the strong steel back, Doxa selected a dependable, yet exactly changed development: a chronometer-grade ETA 2824-2. Much the same as the vintage models, the Doxa 300-SUB Black Lung doesn’t search for extravagant highlights, by having a complex development, yet rather a utilitarian and solid motor that has been completely directed – administration will be simple and timing will be exact gratitude to COSC certification… indeed, all you require in such a device watch.
All in all, this Doxa 300-SUB Black Lung is a sublime re-version of a very uncommon, yet significant watch, as it was the first watch to be given the Aqualung logo, as a proof of unwavering quality. In the event that the “pure reissue” thought could be viewed as simple by a few, it here bodes well as we’re not discussing a generally created watch, however a prototype. Seeing it back today in an extremely restricted run (300 pieces) simply adds to the general coolness of this watch, to be viewed as a symbol and a historically applicable piece. For the actual watch, the suggestion of Doxa is strong: tough development, pleasant subtleties, excellent development, and no concessions to innovation or fashion.
The Doxa 300-SUB Black Lung can be pre-requested straightforwardly from doxawatches.com at a cost of $2,590 and is foreseen to transport in December of this current year. Furthermore, abnormally for the brand, just a solitary dial choice will be accessible, the signature “Professional” orange (no black or silver options).
Technical Specifications – Doxa 300-SUB Black Lung Reissue
- Case: 42.5mm breadth x 13.4mm thick – monoblock tempered steel case – steel screwed back, screwed crown – bubble-like sapphire precious stone – 300m water resistant
- Movement: ETA 2824-2 – Chronometer appraised – 4Hz recurrence – 38h force save – hours, minutes, seconds and date
- Dial: Doxa signature ‘Professional’ orange – black hands
- Bracelet: “beads of rice” arm band in hardened steel, collapsing clasp with plunging extension
- Availability: December 2017
- Limitation: 300 pieces, Orange dial only
- Price: $2,590