Since its introduction in 1998, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ref. 3714 has become the most pursued, the most unmistakable, and surely the top rated model in the Portugieser family. Aside from being a genuine plan achievement, this watch has procured faction status for one explanation: it hasn’t changed a piece since its origin. To commend the 20th commemoration of this advanced symbol, we thought the time had come to take a top to bottom glance at this watch with a review of the Portugieser Chronograph 3714.
A short history of the IWC Portugieser
The IWC Portugieser (not referred to as Portuguese or Portugaise any more) has its underlying foundations in the country that gave its name to this famous watch. Portugal has a rich history of exploring legends, with wayfarers of the height of Vasco da Gama or Ferdinand Magellan, however oceanic investigation has nothing to do with the name of this watch.
The IWC Portugieser was presented in 1939, under the reference 325, after two Portuguese money managers – Rodrigues and Teixeira – visited the IWC manufacture in Schaffhausen with an abnormal solicitation. They needed all the accuracy of a marine chronometer in a wristwatch design. This brought about the making of an enormous, clear hardened steel watch, furnished with a pocket watch development. Fitted with the hand-wound type 74, it was marginally changed to become a tracker development so the crown could be situated on the correct side of the case.
The Ref. 325 was a stunningly huge watch for those days. Estimating 43mm in distance across, when most contemporary watches estimated under 34mm, the style of the watch was eminently useful with an attention on neatness, breaking with the overarching pattern of excessively planned Art Deco watches. The critical components of the plan were the basic Arabic numerals, a super flimsy (practically non-existent) bezel, leaf-molded hands and a utilitarian minutes/seconds track. These plan components have stood the trial of time and are highlighted in the cutting edge adaptations of the IWC Portugieser.
From 1939 until 1993, the IWC Portugieser was hard to find. Just 304 pieces with Caliber 74 were created and 371 pieces with the development of this development, the Caliber 98 (and its resulting form, Caliber 982). During the 1970s and 1980s, the watch was sold solely on the German market and many idea it was the finish of the marine chronometer wristwatch by IWC.
In 1993, the circumstance changed and the IWC Portugieser made its comeback for the 125th commemoration of the brand with the Jubilee Edition Ref. 5441 – a 42mm watch created in 1,750 pieces (1,000 in treated steel, 500 in rose gold, 250 in platinum), which was very dedicated to the first Ref. 325, including a pocket watch-motivated development, Caliber 9828 (an advancement of the Calibers 98 and 982). In any case, the genuine comeback of the IWC Portugieser, as a reliable assortment, happened in 1995 with the presentation of two significant watches. The first was the Ref. 5240, brief repeater created in 550 pieces (50 in platinum, 250 in rose gold and 250 in yellow gold), with a repeater instrument fitted on a hand-wound Caliber 95. Despite the fact that it was an exceptionally complicated model, this watch held the exemplary look of the Portugieser collection.
The most significant acquaintance has with be credited to the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante Ref. 3712 (or DoppelChronograph), which was presented in 1995 and would become the motivation for the model we are reviewing today. Both as far as plan and detail – with the fuse of a worked on split-seconds complication, adjusted on a hand-wound Valjoux 7750 (a module created by Richard Habring, and utilized now in the Habring2 Doppel-Felix ) – the Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante is the establishment stone of the current assortment. Before very long, the assortment will expand with many various watches (think IWC Portugieser Automatic 7-day in 2000) and complications (QP, tourbillon, yearly schedule, in-house chronograph or even a Grande Complication).
The IWC 3714 – Background
In 1998, three years after the presentation of the Chronograph Rattrapante 3712, IWC dispatched a worked on model – Ref. 3714 – a standard chronograph having a similar plan, a similar case, a similar dial and a similar showcase. The fundamental distinction concerned the capacities, as the 3714 disposed of the rattrapante work and took a programmed development on board.
Before we move to the review of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3714, I’d like to say a couple of words on why this watch is so significant, and why this watch is so uncommon in the core of gatherers and inside the assortment. One thing that IWC devotees have known about as of late was a sure absence of consistency in the assortments. Previous CEO Georges Kern’s system was to recharge a whole assortment consistently (Ingenieur in 2013, Aquatimer in 2014, Portugieser in 2015, Pilot’s Watches in 2016 and Da Vinci in 2017). Hence, watches that might have become works of art were immediately supplanted – something that could lead a few group to accept they were (moderately talking, obviously) more “disposable goods” or “fashion accessories” than durable, immortal extravagance items.
One watch that didn’t experience the ill effects of this methodology was the IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3714. Except for an intermittent dial varieties (silver, dark, blue, dark with silver counters and more restricted editions), IWC kept the watch outwardly and in fact indistinguishable from the first 1998 idea. A consistency in the plan and a shrewd situating were vital to the accomplishment of the 3714, combined with the way that it likewise addresses the passage level model to the Portugieser assortment and is a watch with sensible extents. Along these lines as a Speedmaster or a Submariner, the 3714 turned into an advanced symbol that most watch aficionados promptly perceive – so, a foundation of IWC’s identity.
Let’s presently proceed onward to the review of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3714.
The IWC 3714 – Case and Design
When I began my horological venture, around 12 years prior, the Portugieser Chronograph was one of the main watches I went over. Notwithstanding, in those days, my underlying musings on this piece were not equivalent to my appreciation for the watch today. I viewed the watch as plain, straightforward and ailing in creativity – which isn’t completely off-base, however not for the correct reasons. The principle issue was my absence of development as a gatherer and the straightforward actuality that I had never tried the watch on the wrist. And trust me, the 3714 should be tried to be completely valued. When worn, you understand that the general watchfulness and the unbending nature of its plan are what make the 3714 so appealing.
So, indeed, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph is spotless, tactful and thorough, regarding ideas that won in the first mission of the Portugieser. A spotless dial, a plan focussed on decipherability and, generally, a utilitarian watch. Today, the 3714 is accessible in six unique variants – 4 in steel with silver/gold dial, silver/blue dial, dark/rhodium dial, blue/rhodium dial and 2 in pink gold with a record hued dial or silver/gold dial. Today, we’ll center around the steel model with blue lists and hands – despite the fact that the most notorious variant remaining parts the steel with a silver-plated dial and gold hands/indices.
The instance of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph is actually equivalent to the instance of the watch dispatched 20 years prior – itself a determination of the 3712. While the base idea of the Portugieser was to have a pocket watch development fitted inside an enormous case, the 3714 Chronograph is somewhat more sensible on this side – more commercial possibly – with a case that measures “only” 40.9mm – referring to the breadth of the actual case, not the bezel.
Like the first, the bezel is practically non-existent. Very slim, formed like a turned around cone (the bezel is more extensive than the case) and making an enormous window on the dial, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph combines the most amazing aspect the two universes: the comfort of a generally little watch with the impression of having a huge piece on the wrist.
With a stature of 12.6mm, the case is additionally charmingly flimsy for a programmed chronograph, and while not particularly compact on paper – 47mm drag to-haul – the state of the case is comfortable and even, even on more modest wrists. As far as development, we have a barrel shaped focal holder with incorporated carries (which means straight flanks) on top of which the bezel is fixed. The screwed caseback is domed to ingest a portion of the thickness of the development and helps the watch look more slender too.
The completing comprises cleaned territories – top of the hauls, sides of the bezel, crown and pushers – and brushed surfaces – even on the case and vertical in the middle of the drags. Through and through, the instance of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3714 is quite noteworthy. It is flawless, exactly changed and collected, refined on all surfaces – something I was not expecting prior to having this watch in my hands.
Other highlights are a raised sapphire precious stone (with an efficient anti-reflective covering on the two sides of the gem), a non-screwed crown that is sufficiently huge to be comfortably controlled, and short, wide mushroom-like chronograph pushers – simple to work yet rather hardened when squeezing them, as consistently with Valjoux-fueled watches. The IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3714 is water-impervious to 30 meters just, which may be one of the primary issues I have with this watch. Thinking about the nautical motivation, IWC ought to improve the water-protection from 100 meters – for greater flexibility. Be that as it may, for the trust the evidence speak for itself, the case is essentially very well executed.
The IWC 3714 – Dial and hands
While the instance of the 3714 makes concessions to comfort and every day convenience with a more modest distance across than the first idea, the dial of this watch is faithful to its predecessor. There is no denying it, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph is a genuine Portugieser.
While the expansion of a chronograph work isn’t altogether in accordance with the marine chronometer motivation, IWC has figured out how to keep the straightforwardness and ideal neatness of the first Portugieser flawless. The excellence of this watch is that, despite the fact that it is controlled by a Valjoux development, you scarcely see the impressions of the mechanics in the presentation. The 3714 just highlights two sub-counters and sheds the date window to offer a decent and smooth dial, with all signs situated on the 12-to-6 o’clock pivot – which is, truth be told, a reference to old marine chronometers (with a little second at 6 o’clock and a force save at 12 o’clock).
Apart from these two sub-enlists, the dial of the 3714 honors the early Portugieser models, with its Arabic numerals, its leaf-molded hands and the shortfall of any unnecessary highlights. Absolutely, there’s a touch of writing on the dial – logo at 3 o’clock and “Chronograph Automatic” at 9 o’clock – notwithstanding, indeed, proportional and well-positioned.
The variant we have here for the review – Ref. 371446 – highlights the unsurpassed exemplary silver-plated dial, which you no doubt know in its other structure, with brilliant files and hands. The actual dial is cleaned, except for the sub-enrolls that are recessed and embellished with a snailed design. The tone is substantially more energetic in the metal than the authority photos recommend. Somewhat radiant with a metallic vibe, it plays a ton with the surrounding light. Along these lines, it very well may be warm or cool, white or shimmering relying upon the conditions.
On this form, all the records, numerals and hands are blue. On the other hand, contingent upon the surrounding light, they change from practically dark to a brilliant, exceptional blue shade (see photo above).
The primary hands – hours and minutes – are leaf-molded and offer an incredible differentiation to the brilliant white dial. The execution is, by and by, exact and refined. Different hands are more basic in plan, particularly the incredibly dainty focal chronograph hand. However, perusing passed times remains easy.
The Arabic numerals, a mark component of the Portugieser assortment, are available here, marginally raised over the principle plate of the dial. They offer a wonderful vibe of profundity and enliven the dial. At long last, being a chronograph, IWC has made an extra seconds track, which is imprinted on the internal rib – no tachymeter or pulsometer scale here, as they are not pertinent to the first concept.
The IWC 3714 – Movement
As the majority of you may know, the vital component to the openness of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3714 lies in its moderately basic development. Shockingly, IWC didn’t give in to the alarm requires an assembling development in this watch – aside from the 150th-commemoration Ref. 3716 restricted edition dispatched recently. The 3714 actually depends on Valjoux 7750 engineering, though widely modified.
When it was dispatched in 1998, the Ref. 3714 was furnished with the Caliber 79240, which thusly was subbed around 2007 for the current Caliber 79350. Other than the completing and the scaffolds that are currently rhodium-plated rather than overlaid, the developments are indistinguishable. Beneath, the old 79240 on the left and the current 79350 on the right.
What ought to be underlined is that the base development has been widely altered to fulfill with IWC’s guidelines. To begin with, the presentation is unique; the 12-hour counter has been eliminated and the little seconds sub-dial put at 6 o’clock (rather than 9 o’clock on a standard 7750). Likewise, the date component has been altogether eliminated – no “ghost” position on the crown. At long last, the Caliber 79350 highlights 31 gems, rather than the 25 gems on a 7750 – confirmation of the relative multitude of alterations executed on the movement.
Finally, a portion of the parts have been moved up to a more excellent, explicitly the escapement, the equilibrium and the hairspring to offer better chronometric results. The remainder of the determinations are equivalent to other 7750 developments: 4Hz recurrence, 44h force save and the run of the mill “wobbly” vibe of the wavering load in action.
The design is mechanical – Geneva stripes, perlage – however considering the steel caseback, it doesn’t truly matter on this watch.
The IWC 3714 – On the Wrist
How does the IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3714 perform on the wrist? All things considered, just incredible. As far as comfort, the moderately little measurement (taking into account what IWC is accustomed to creating) considers the watch to be flexible and even, whatever the size of the wrist – for example, I have a somewhat little wrist (17cm) and the watch looks incredible and proportioned.
The carries are bended and short enough to guarantee the case doesn’t project from the wrist. Concerning the thickness, the 3714 is moderately slight for a watch furnished with a programmed chronograph development – again adding to the comfort and to the attentiveness of the watch. Adequately flimsy to fit under a sleeve? Shockingly no, in any case, this is pretty much consistently the case with a chronograph. No dramatization here.
The lash, which is situated low on the hauls, is unquestionably the boldest piece of this watch, particularly on this blue variant. Its tone isn’t uniform and looks somewhat “washed” – hazier on the fringe of the scales and lighter in the middle. Despite the fact that it isn’t made by Santoni, the nature of this tie is brilliant. Thick however not solid, it quickly embraces the wrist and doesn’t need a variation period prior to becoming comfortable. This tie is comparable to the remainder of the watch: genuinely made, very much planned, comfortable. Same goes for the clasp, which shows wonderful improvements (brushed and sloped) just as being comfortable – I for the most part prefer pin-clasps to deployant catches, yet here I’ll keep the OEM clasp.
Finally, shouldn’t something be said about the vibe of the watch? Indeed, the “strict”, somewhat Teutonic, clean plan of this watch is really its fundamental strength. What some see as a deadened watch is for other people, an exemplary extravagance object that will stand the trial of time thoughtfully. The IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3714 isn’t a genuine games watch, it isn’t a dress watch all things considered. It is adaptable and can be worn in many conditions (formal attire or pants and tennis shoes). I for one have a preference for this 371446 model with blue lists over the more work of art, more formal 371445 with brilliant hands/lists. The blue tone is more in accordance with the nautical topic and adds more differentiation, more easygoing quality and a wonderful “summer” look.
Overall, it is a watch that can’t turn out badly. It surely isn’t the most enhanced, showy piece in the assortment, yet it is loaded with circumspect subtleties and its execution is noteworthy. And in the event that it looked great 20 years prior, and looks great now, it will glance great in a long time from now.
This review affirmed a certain something: the IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3714 really merits its famous status. It is one of those watches that, at some point or another, most watch aficionados should consider – close by the Speedmaster or the Submariner. We should commend IWC for keeping this piece unblemished, for not transforming it drastically.
As for the actual item, it isn’t precisely modest – EUR 7,600 – however permit us two contemplations. To begin with, as the section level candidate to the Portugieser assortment, it isn’t a particularly extravagant cost. At that point, you need to consider the general nature of this watch – case, dial, lash and even development (recollect that it is vigorously adjusted and improved) – which makes it an awesome proposal in the sub-10k class. Let’s simply trust it will remain the manner in which it is for the following 20 years. This is the way you make a symbol. More subtleties at iwc.com .