Seiko came to Baselworld 2017 with an exceptionally reviving astonishment (among all the eminent watches which they dispatched …). Albeit a few of us had felt that the Seiko Presage 60th Anniversary Chronograph would perpetually stay an unreachable dream – due to its restricted creation numbers, which sold out quickly – the Japanese brand this year uncovered a full scope of looks for their Seiko Presage Enamel Collection . These new models comprise of one as well as four watches, all precisely fueled, each with the additional extravagance of hand-made enamel dials, and they incorporate the comeback of the wonderful chronograph… better still these pieces won’t be restricted in production!
What is Presage?
While the greater part of us know about the Seiko 5 (passage level watches), the Prospex collection (pro athletics watches) or Grand Seiko (top of the line watches, presently a brand all alone), Presage has a somewhat extraordinary picture. This collection, which has some “heritage” DNA and which is fueled by just mechanical developments, has remained fairly calm for certain years, particularly for gatherers situated outside of Japan. Indeed, it was once limited to the Japanese homegrown market in. Notwithstanding, in 2016, Seiko opened this collection to the remainder of the world, and to report this, they dispatched an amazing watch, the Seiko Presage 60th Anniversary Chronograph accessible in two 1,000 piece restricted releases, which sold out immediately.
The Presage collection includes no quartz or Spring-Drive developments, rather it is completely given to mechanical types, every one of which is made in-house just like a custom of Seiko. Vintage motivation is a solid element of the collection, with watches styled to address the brand’s rich legacy – see the Presage 60th Anniversary Chronograph whose dial is roused by that of the first since forever Seiko watch, the Laurel. At last, it is a collection that honors the ancestral savoir-faire strategies of Japan, for example, Urushi veneer or enameling. With highlights, for example, hand-made enamel dials, you may expect the offering cost of Presage pieces to mirror this degree of extravagance, anyway they stay entirely reasonable, with some watches estimated at well under 1,000 Euros.
The New, Unlimited Seiko Presage Enamel Collection
Due to the excitement which welcomed their Limited Edition Chronograph, Seiko has have taken a portion of the highlights which made that specific model so effective, and have fused them into the plan of the 2017 Presage Collection. Therefore the new models have similar cases, comparative dials, a similar vintage style and a similar inconceivable quality/value proportion. Rather than relaunching just the chronograph, Seiko will currently have four watches in this collection: two 3-hand watches (one round and one tonneau, the last won’t be included in this article, as not accessible at the hour of the shooting), one multi-hand automatic and the comeback of the chronograph, yet with some slight visual differences.
The Presage Collection depends on vintage watches made by Seiko. While the primary Presage collection depended essentially on the 1913 Laurel (the brand’s first wristwatch), with a white enamel dial and Arabic numerals (counting the red 12), this second and unlimited collection has different motivations. It actually depends on this respectable material but it additionally takes styling references from a 1895 pocket watch, the “Time Keeper”, for the Roman records and in general style of the dials.
The 3-hand Seiko Presage Enamel Automatic SPB047
So, let’s start with most affordable model in the collection and work our path up. Amongst the four watches that Seiko presents in the Presage Enamel collection, the new Seiko Presage Enamel Automatic SPB047 likely could be the best arrangement of the parcel, a legitimate “value for the money” watch. While Switzerland will in general propose enamel dials in watches with 4 or 5-figure sticker prices, what you see here is an automatic watch, with in-house development and hand-created enamel dial for simply above EUR 1,000. The watch is very basic obviously yet this doesn’t diminish at all from its appeal.
This SPB047 is a marginally formal watch with its 40.5mm case, in steel. The shape and style is equivalent to the 2016 chronograph, with facetted carries and cleaned and brushed surfaces. The general plan of the case is charming, exquisite and considerably more downplayed than the typical energetic creation of Seiko. Plainly here, the watch was expected to satisfy Europe and US gatherers, who are more acquainted with, and used to purchasing Swiss watches. Inside the case is the Caliber 6R15, an automatic, 3Hz development with 50h force hold and rather essential completing – which is exactly what’s required for a appropriate workhorse, most popular for its precision and reliability.
The principle interest of this Seiko Presage Enamel Automatic SPB047 is obviously its dial. On the off chance that from the start nothing appears to be irregular – old style Roman lists, white tone, date window at 3 – on a nearer inspection the excellence of hand-made enamel dial becomes clear. This implies a few things. As a matter of first importance, enamel is only remarkable in the tone and reflections it brings. In light of the manual intercession, the dial isn’t great, however these little defects truly just add to its character. Indeed, there are some little blemishes, for example, the edging around the date window which may appear to be quite unpleasant in its completing, yet these are eclipsed by its unique sparkle, and the smooth white impact of enamel. At its value point, the manual crafting of the dial suggests such imperfections – which must be acknowledged as a feature of the package.
This “entry-level” edition Seiko Presage Enamel Automatic SPB047 isn’t restricted underway and will be evaluated at an amazingly competitive EUR 1,100. An incredible cost for an exquisite, refined and in part hand-made watch.
The Seiko Presage Multi-Hand Automatic SPB045
Next up, the Presage Automatic Multi-Hand, is a piece that we’ve as of now investigated on Monochrome , anyway that was in its “standard” version, with finished dial. On this latest variation, the dial has an old style white polish on top of a plate with fine herringbone design. Much the same as the original version (ref. SPB041J1), this SPB045 Enamel dialed release includes the very complex showcase that we delighted in already, which means H/M/S on the focal pivot, date-by-hand at 6 (an old style and ordinarily very extravagant presentation) and a force save pointer at 9 (not that useful on an automatic watch, however it is as yet wonderful to have as a watch lover).
Once again in this Seiko Presage Multi-Hand Automatic SPB045, we have a mid-range, in-house, self-twisting development by Seiko, the Calibre 6R27. This development is further developed than the 3-hand form above, as it highlights the Trimatic innovation, Seiko’s Dia-Shock against stun framework, the productive Magic Lever Winding framework and the utilization of cutting edge Spron 510 composite in the springs. In expressions particulars, we have an advanced 4Hz recurrence and 45 hours of force save. All things considered, it is precise and profoundly solid, just as being nicely decorated – which is however much one could expect in its price segment.
The case is equivalent to above, with bent hauls, satined and cleaned surfaces that other, and generally, it’s a pleasantly planned case. It quantifies a similar sensible yet present day 40.5mm and comes with a crocodile lash. Once more, the most unusual factor here is the dial, hand-made in white enamel. The magnificence comes from its complexity, comprising of several layers. The subdials are somewhat recessed, however not in a “brutal” way but rather tenderly. The printed dial markings in dark are top notch, and it is combined with equally rich blued hands. For the individuals who feel somewhat exhausted by a basic 3-hand show, this Presage Multi-Hand Automatic will give more than expected.
The Seiko Presage Multi-Hand Automatic SPB045 is again not restricted underway, and estimated at EUR 1,300 (compared to EUR 899 for the norm, non-enamel version). That’s a significant advance up for sure, compared to the SPB041J1, anyway this watch actually combines complexity and top of the line materials for an entirely sensible price.
The Seiko Presage Enamel Chronograph SRQ023
Last yet not least – emphatically not least. This is the one! When, at Baselworld 2016, Seiko showed the Presage 60th Anniversary Chronograph , we all – gatherers and columnists – realized that it would become a moment achievement – and it hasn’t disappointed. This watch, which at that time was accessible in two renditions (one with white enamel dial, one with hand-made dark Japanese finish), had everything: the exemplary look, the in-house chronograph development, the style, the selectiveness and the cost. Anyway there was an issue: just 1,000 instances of each version were created, and true to form, it was sold out practically straight away.
Thus, envision our astonishment, when earlier to Baselworld 2017, we got the news that the Presage Chronograph was going to organize a come back, yet this time with a somewhat extraordinary white enamel dial, and also in a non-restricted creation. Kind of a blessing from heaven. Jokes separated, numerous authorities were marginally disappointed, discovering there was minimal possibility of them getting their hands on the 2016 variant. Seiko was unquestionably trying the market however now, they’re pretty mindful that this watch was a perfect formula. So here we are, with the Seiko Presage Enamel Chronograph SRQ023.
Compared to the restricted 2016 variant, the progressions are insignificant. Truth be told, with the exemption of the Breguet Arabic numerals – roused by the 1913 Laurel – presently supplanted by extended Roman numerals, an alternate hour hand and slight advancements of the writing on the dial, this is the very same watch. Implying that the exquisite case actually holds the 42mm measurement and 15.2mm tallness (water impervious to 100m), the mushroom pushers, the conelike crown, the turned drags, the satined and cleaned surfaces, the enormous dial opening and a similar presence on the wrist. Obviously, if Seiko was not imprinted on the dial, it very well may be a shock to find that this was actually a Japanese watch, anyway this was the raison d’être of the Presage collection: drawing in European and American top of the line collectors.
As said, the fundamental developments concern the dial, with Roman numerals, to be steady with the remainder of the Presage Enamel collection, the upgraded logo at 12 (and the expansion of ‘Presage Automatic’) and a leaf hand for the hours, rather than a Pike-formed hand. In the event that it loses a touch of its richness, the new records offer more tact and more tastefulness, with a specific ageless allure. Once more, the smooth white enamel dial is extraordinarily executed thinking about the cost of the watch, with the slight flaws that mean the manual manufacturing process.
Inside the case is the Calibre 8R48, a cutting edge coordinated, automatic chronograph development, an in fact progressed motor. It in fact includes a section haggle grasp – so-to-say, the most ideal combination for a chronograph. It additionally fuses Seiko’s special three-directed sledge toward guarantee the ideal synchronization of the hands’ fly-back. It ticks at 28,800 vibrations each hour and flaunts 45 hours of force reserve.
The best news is that this Seiko Presage Enamel Chronograph SRQ023 isn’t restricted underway. Notwithstanding, this doesn’t imply that it will be not difficult to acquire one. A few vendors as of now have a holding up rundown, and the production won’t be on a similar level as a SKX007 for example. It will stay a very selective piece, notwithstanding, on the off chance that you show restraint, one day eventually, you’ll have the option to appreciate this wonderful watch. Cost is EUR 2,650, again very noteworthy for such a package.
More subtleties on www.seikowatches.com and on the devoted page www.seiko-presage.com .