Some classes in the watch world are more competitive than others. The “Luxury Sports-Watch” area positively is among the hardest of all. Slender, definitely characterized, and requiring the best expectations of value, extravagance, and mechanics, it is driven by a couple, exceptionally solid icons… Entering it is complex. Crushing spirit into its positions is near incomprehensible, yet this is the thing that Vacheron Constantin have accomplished with the new Overseas assortment, first presented in 2016, and today we take a gander at the “standard” offer, the Overseas Automatic 4500V.
The “Luxury Sports-Watch” Category
In the strictest definition, the “luxury sports-watch” classification is very limited. It comprises presumably under 10 individuals, a large portion of them brought into the world during the 1970s, under the virtuoso pen of a specific Gerald Genta. What is a “luxury sports-watch”? Obviously, there’s no authority definition, so here what we, at Monochrome, would say: a “luxury sports-watch” is a hardened steel watch with incorporated arm band, formed case, slender profile, with very good quality development of the case and wristband, extravagant subtleties, a haute-Horlogerie thin development, all combined with the capacity to be worn during recreation exercises. So to say, a watch that combines the most amazing aspect a dress watch with the most amazing aspect a games watch.
Most of the current individuals from the “luxury sports-watch” class were brought into the world during the 1970s and the greater part of them were planned by a solitary man: Genta. He can be credited with the making of an idea, exceptional around then: a steel watch that was more costly than most classical 3-hand gold dress watches. To completely comprehend what this “luxury sports-watch”, take a couple of models: AP Royal Oak, PP Nautilus, IWC Ingenieur Jumbo SL, GP Laureato, and obviously, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas – or if nothing else the progenitor of this assortment, the Reference 222.
Short History of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas
Launched in 1977, as a response to the offers made by the 2 different individuals from the Holy Trinity (PP and AP), was the 222, which was acquainted with mark the brand’s 222nd commemoration. Regardless of whether a few similitudes can be spotted between the plan of the Royal Oak, the Nautilus and the 222, and in spite of mainstream thinking, it isn’t planned by Gerald Genta. The individual who planned the 222 was a young fellow named Jorg Hysek (who’s presently additionally the namesake of another brand.)
Several highlights of the 222 were somewhat exceptional: the state of the case (an precise tonneau with a round bezel), the state of the bracelet’s joins and the plan of the indented bezel, or the Malte Cross incorporated into the case, just underneath the dial. The Vacheron Constantin 222 was controlled by the super slim caliber 1121 (which is basically the very development that the AP and PP competitors utilized; all depend on the JLC caliber 920). The 222 was delivered in 3 varieties, steel, gold/steel and all gold and in 2 case sizes (38mm for the automatic and 34mm with a quartz movement). This now an exceptionally pursued piece that was quickly ceased (in 1984) and they just delivered 500 pieces. Albeit not actually part of the Overseas assortment, the 222 can be viewed as the ancestor of the collection.
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas, as an appropriate assortment, was presented in 1996. “It was chosen to make a games/stylish watch straightforwardly following the 222 dispatched very nearly 20 years prior: a tonneau molded case with a round serrated bezel, this time as a messed up Maltese cross. The plan group was composed of Dino Modolo, an autonomous planner accountable for some Vacheron Constantin plans of the time and Vincent Kaufmann a young in-house designer, who today heads the VC configuration group. First to be dispatched was the time just model lodging cal 1310 dependent on GP caliber 3100 out of a 37mm case.” It was then followed in 1999 by the chronograph, lodging the Piguet-based automatic caliber 1137, which depended on the Piguet caliber 1185 that was adjusted to add a major date mechanism.
The most recent execution of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas was uncovered in 2004, with a more manly and energetic plan. The primary development concerns the arm band, which incorporated the brand’s representative Maltese cross with brushed and cleaned points. The first Overseas models have additionally ripped up as well: a period in particular and a chronograph, both in 42mm cases. Later a Dual Time was added just as one highlighting a Perpetual Calendar. These models were not, at this point guaranteed as chronometers yet accompanied antimagnetic security. Finally, Vacheron Constantin changed to the caliber 1126 for the time-just model.
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Automatic 4500V
Back in 2016, Vacheron Constantin presented a spic and span, completely overhauled assortment for the meaningful Overseas. Another shape, albeit not altogether new, highlighted new styling, new norms of extravagance, new developments and new complications… Overall, a significant update. The assortment was first dispatched around four models: the present Overseas Automatic 4500V , the Ultra-Thin 2000V , the Chronograph 5500V and the Perpetual Calendar Ultra-slight – joined later by a world-time adaptation . In the event that all the versions are alluring and brimming with interest (special notice for the super dainty automatic, anyway just accessible in white gold, and evaluated around 60,000 Euro), the foundation of the assortment stays the passage level offer, the present Overseas Automatic 4500V.
As we previously clarified, the plan of the new Overseas is a combination of certain components of past models, with a by and large new shape. While all the past renditions, from the 222 to the 1990s forms or the just ceased ones, depended on a sharp barrel case, the new version has more bends – the case is as yet a tonneau-molded one, albeit the sides are more adjusted. This progressions the view of the watch, somewhat more rich and possibly somewhat less manly generally. However, the exemplary contacts stay, for example, the serrated bezel formed like a broken Maltese cross – once more, it is a slight plan advancement, as the recessed parts appear to be altered compared to the past variant, and the entire bezel is appropriately round.
In terms of extents and plan, we’re completely in the “luxury sports-watch” domain. A very enormous distance across, at 41mm (regardless of whether it is 1mm not exactly the past release), a combination of brushed surfaces with cleaned accents and slopes, moderately slight profile, at 11mm (one or two millimeters less would have been welcome though), a coordinated wristband (with something very cool… more later) and generally speaking a magnificent development and wrapping up. To be sure, one thing that quickly comes to mind when playing with this Vacheron Constantin Overseas Automatic 4500V is the general inclination of value and consideration regarding subtleties. Whatever the point, any place you look, the execution is just shocking. Amazing changes, sharp advances between the various surfaces, shiny cleaning, wonderful brushing… It seems like you are not in the games watch classification any longer, but rather very well into top of the line watchmaking.
A unique notice ought to be made for the steel wristband. A nearby look uncovers an unbelievable measure of details: polished and glossy silk brushed completed connections, a cleaned chamfer on the edges, and polished inside points on the focal point of the links… This is something that is generally found on developments, not arm bands. In general, the notable plan of the wristband, emulating a Maltese cross is as yet present, and gives the Overseas Automatic 4500V a particular look – manly, yet rich and refined.
Vacheron Constantin likewise had the cunning plan to make a compatible wristband. We’ve all confronted that: taking a watch with steel arm band, battling for thirty minutes with bad quality apparatuses to eliminate it, and that activity fundamentally finished in taking care of the side of the lugs… Yet, changing the ties/wristbands has become a repetitive game. How VC has managed the Overseas Automatic 4500V (and on the remainder of the collection) is to make a brisk delivery gadget, where you essentially press a catch between the carries to deliver the wristband. Furthermore, the other valid statement is that the container comprises two additional lashes – elastic and cowhide – just as a committed collapsing catch (that can be utilized on both straps). A shrewd method to make your watch adaptable, and to secure its delightfully completed case.
For the dial, Vacheron Constantin chose to go outwardly straightforward for this new Overseas assortment. A valid statement thinking about that the case has very some complex shapes. Compared to the more established model, we have a more refined and clean plan. The not-so-fitting Arabic numerals are presently gone and are supplanted by 18k white gold applied twirly doo lists. It’s similar formula for the hands: slimmer, longer and more tasteful. At long last, the dial of the Overseas Automatic 4500V offers extraordinary intelligibility, on account of two free tracks: one for the minutes on the fringe of the dial, and one for the seconds on the internal flange.
Also, the date returns to a characteristic situation, at 3. Some will contend about the presence or not of such a window on a watch, but rather realizing this version is intended to be an every day blender, the date bodes well. Moreover, on the silver version we looked into here, the date appears to be practically imperceptible. The dial, regardless of whether evidently straightforward, is very made: a plate with a sun-beam design in the middle, on top of which is applied a clear polish, which leaves obvious the surface finishings under. This carries an intriguing profundity to the dial. The Overseas Automatic 4500V is accessible in 3 steel release: silver dial (seen here), blue dial and earthy colored dial (note that a pink gold rendition with silver dial and a two-tone silver/gold adaptation with silver dial are additionally available).
Turn the watch over and you’ll find a serious motor – perhaps not as far as look, as this development is very timid and conceals a ton of its technical components, yet regarding specifications. This automatic caliber 5100, created and fabricated by Vacheron Constantin and decorated with the sign of Geneva, is composed of 172 sections. It beats at the pace of 28,800 vibrations each hour and is invested with a comfortable 60-hour power save, ensured by its twin barrels (ensuring the consistency of the force conveyed to the directing organ).
The straightforward screwed-down caseback uncovers the valuable 22K gold wavering weight embellished with a compass rose; itself enhanced differently: with iced surfaces, brushed parts and cleaned parts. The enrichment of the actual development is charming (sign of Geneva obliges) and shows no streams – decent chamfers, sloped wheel, cleaned screws… One side note: the enhancement is very cold and somewhat clinical, regardless of whether finished with cutting edge procedures. A smidgen more lavishness or more opened bridges would have added some more pleasure.
All in all, the Vacheron Constantin is an intense bundle: pleasant development, amazing execution of the case, dial and arm band, historically-pertinent subtleties and a solid DNA. The Overseas new-gen is unmistakably deserving of its name. So now, the huge one: is it enough compared to the Royal Oak or the Nautilus? Regarding quality, almost certainly to have, the Overseas Automatic is truly on par. Regarding style, regardless of whether it is close to home, it exemplifies what one would expect for a “luxury sports-watch”. Regarding “prestige” of the brand, well Vacheron is important for the Holy Trinity, which means there’s no discussion here. Unbiasedly, at 21,500 Euro, it is isn’t modest yet its competitors aren’t either.
So stays the topic of the emanation of the model itself… The two others are genuine symbols and the greatest blemish of the Overseas isn’t inalienable to the actual watch yet to its market. Just time, and congruity in the plan and quality, can support the symbolic side of the Overseas – however it’s in transit. More subtleties on vacheron-constantin.com .
Technical Specifications – Vacheron Constantin Overseas Automatic 4500V
- Case: 41mm measurement x 11m thick – treated steel, cleaned and brushed – sapphire precious stone on the two sides – 150m water resistant
- Movement: Caliber 5100, in-house – Hallmark of Geneva confirmation – automatic – 4Hz recurrence – 60h force save – hours, minutes, seconds, date
- Bracelet/strap: exchangeable steel arm band – box incorporates elastic tie and calfskin lash, with steel collapsing buckle
- Price: 21,500 Euro