Recently I had the favorable luck to head out with Ulysse Nardin to Bermuda, to experience the Americas Cup and become acquainted with the people of the Artemis Racing Team – who are supported by the Le Locle-based watch brand. During that trip I borrowed the Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time Boutique Edition, and throughout the span of the days there, I discovered what an incredible watch this is. Refined, yet striking, stylish, yet tough, and really ideal for any event. Here’s our survey of the Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time Boutique Edition, with new lacquer dial and cool strap.
Preliminary note: I need to say that the watch I have been wearing was not new. The brand’s communication chief had been wearing it and testing it for more than a half year, and it shows. On photographs you will see a scratch anywhere, and the waxed calfskin lash shows a decent dim patina. On a side note, I need to make reference to that the watch is evaluated to a 30 meter water obstruction. In actuality it was on the wrist of somebody who bounced off a bluff into the sea, and the watch remained water evidence, and the waxed cowhide lash appeared kind of water repellant.
The Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time isn’t appropriately another model, as the Classic Dual Time has been in the assortment now for a couple of years as one of the foundation models. This, nonetheless, doesn’t forestall us from getting back to this model and particularly its most recent adaptation, which, as you’ll discover, is in fact one of the coolest accessible. In light of the current form, Ulysse Nardin is actualizing a portion of the new plan codes that we have seen for example on the most recent Marine or Classico watches – which means sleeker looks, more refined, and some additional vintage style. The overall plans of the most recent UN models seem more limited and less “outgoing” than previously, and the entirety of that at costs that truly become hard to beat. Plainly, in the course of the most recent 2 years, Ulysse Nardin has been moving in an exceptionally intriguing direction!
This new heading can positively be seen in the Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time Boutique Edition. In view of a model highlighting a fairly complex showcase and a dial inspiring Marine ropes – with a particular example and polished steel lists – the brand has chosen to give the watch a new look, with a clean dial and a contact of ‘vintage’, combined with a extraordinary looking lash, made to live and age on the wrist. What we call acquiring patina. The what tops off an already good thing/em> comes from the actual dial, presently made in polish – something that appears to become the standard for Ulysse Nardin, which now fully depends on one of its greatest assets, the disguised (and acclaimed) dial-maker Donzé Cadrans.
Basically, as we said, this variant is principally an update of a current watch, anyway the dial and lash change improve things significantly on the wrist, giving this Classic Dual Time a fresh out of the plastic new style and feel. Close by these visual changes, the model additionally profits by specialized upgrades, making its development one sharp piece of mechanics with solutions to make your life simple.
Case and Strap
Although we’re taking a gander at the Boutique Edition, the Classic Dual Time sticks to the case that we have known for some years now. Made in tempered steel, completely cleaned – yet with incredible consideration and exactness – the instance of this watch is quite intense from the outset. Being measured at 42mm in distance across, it shows up rather monstrous when you first handle it; an inclination that is built up by the full mirror wrapping up. It is a significant assertion piece, which anyway feels more refined once on the wrist. Most importantly, it is here combined with a tie that is everything aside from classic (more about that later). Interestingly, while this watch may be 42mm in distance across, it wears very well, and a lot more modest then the number 42 would recommend, thank to bended drags and a coordinated tie. This combination causes it to feel as though the watch nearly embraces your wrist, and wears very comfortable!
The configuration is in the vein of Ulysse Nardin’s creation, with ventured drags and the mark plate at the left half of the case showing the limit and special number of the watch. This plate is important for the brand’s DNA and even I very like it, I realize it is very troublesome. Whatever floats his boat. Two enormous pushers are situated to one side and right of this plate, at 8 and 10, to rapidly change the neighborhood time – these pushers have + and – logos engraved, in the event that you disregard their capacity. As I mentioned in the introduction, the case should be 30m water safe, which appears to be quite conservative, anyway that’s predominantly due to the push piece in the crown, which empowers you to choose the capacity of the crown. As of now referenced, notwithstanding the 30m water opposition, it will positively withstand an incidental hop into the ocean (or swimming pool.)
Now, what might be said about this lash? Indeed, in spite of the fact that we’re taking about the lash, this matured/waxed cowhide definitely changes the style of the watch – close by the new dial. The waxed earthy colored and bothered cowhide on this Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time Boutique Edition adds the correct dose of cool and easygoing style. In addition, it is the sort of tie that is made to live and age, acquiring patina and appeal while worn. This is only a detail however one that shows the new bearing of the brand, which with little changes its picture, without losing its DNA. This lash is combined to a triple collapsing fasten, comfortable and secured.
Dial and Display
The primary fascination on this Boutique Edition, compared to a standard Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time , is unquestionably its dial. While the style has advanced, the material picked additionally separate this edition from the remainder of the assortment. Here, we have a magnificent grand feu lacquer dial, in an eggshell color, warm and perfectly coordinating with the earthy colored shade of the lash. This dial is made inside by UN, with their own dial-creator, Donzé Cadrans. Indeed, this allows UN to offer such dials for a very attractive price level. Increasingly more UN watches currently highlight polish dials and to be straightforward, it is an amazing move from the brand.
Compared to the previous editions , has the material has changed as well as the style of the dial, which presently has dark Roman numerals and marine-style, exceptionally intelligible tracks for the minutes and the little second. Time and signs are given by blackened steel hands, with a circumspect and exquisite leaf shape.
Several signs are given by the Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time, in a purposefully unbalanced way – anyway this specific format is the thing that gives this UN all its appeal and uniqueness. While the little second is situated classically at 6, the enormous date for example is set at 2. The subsequent time-zone, the principle complication of this watch, is noticeable in a cautious yet completely instinctive window at 9. Additionally new is the crown-work marker at 3, with W (winding), D (date) and T (time). Hours and minutes are obviously on the focal axis.
All of these signs are very legible and entirely helpful, regardless of whether it is the enormous date or the subsequent time zone; two highlights that are becoming very irreplaceable with our present ways of life, venturing to the far corners of the planet, or if nothing else being in contact with individuals from across the globe. Not much, just the fundamental and helpful features.
As with a large portion of the watches fabricated by Ulysse Nardin, usability is one of the fundamental targets – the Ludwig Oechslin contact, on the off chance that you like. While at home, you should utilize this watch as a solitary time, implying that the hour hand and the window at 9 ought to be synchronized (accordingly the dual time acts like a 24h pointer). Nonetheless, when voyaging, you’ll need to change the watch to demonstrate nearby time AND home time. Nothing troublesome here: push one of the two pushers are 8 or 10 to take the hour hand leap advances or backwards and afterward demonstrate neighborhood time. The window at 9 won’t move however, consequently as yet showing home time. The date will change as needs be, forward or potentially in reverse, with the neighborhood time.
Winding and changing the watch is done through the crown, yet not by hauling it out notwithstanding. Incorporated into the crown is a pusher, which permits you to choose the correct position – W/D/T. This component is both actually fascinating yet additionally offers security over the long haul, as pulled-crowns are sometimes failed to remember and become a powerless point. The enormous date is changed by the crown, and can be amended both in reverse and advances. When setting the crown to time-changing, (T), the development is hacked, and the recycled will stop, so you can change the time unequivocally. To begin the development again you push the pusher in the crown again, so the marker focuses to the W for winding position.
Inside the Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time Boutique Edition is a known development, the calibre UN-324. This motor combines programmed winding with an adequate force save of 48 hours. It is a complex development, which includes no under 53 gems and comes alongside a few licenses (counting the protected quickset second time-zone). Obviously, Ulysse Nardin obliges, it includes an antimagnetic escapement and hairspring in silicon – don’t fail to remember that Ulysse Nardin were the first to commercialize a watch with such material, back in the mid 2000s, with the Freak ( see here for a survey and history of this notable watch )
The look and enrichment of the development are charming, regardless of whether very modern. Screws are thermally blued, spans are embellished with roundabout Geneva stripes and edges are slanted and cleaned. The rotor shows a decent enamel medallion with the logo of the brand.
We definitely realized that Ulysse Nardin had the option to make superb watches on the mechanical side, without any difficulty of-utilization, where structure follows work. This is again the situation with the Classic Dual Time, which appeared to be an ideal partner when voyaging. What’s going on however is the fresh design heading needed by the brand: more refined, on account of polish dials and sleeker styles, with a touch of easygoing quality and vintage claim, anyway never turning to gimmicks. This Boutique Edition is certainly reviving and incredibly wonderful to wear. An ideal companion for incessant explorers who need to get around in style.
Furthermore, this Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time Boutique Edition confirms indeed the brand’s aggressive value strategy, with an exceptionally nice tag of EUR 12,900/CHF 12,900 (restricted to 99 pieces, just at true Ulysse Nardin boutiques). Not terrible for a watch with such a development and refined veneer dial. More subtleties on ulysse-nardin.com .
Technical Specifications – Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time Boutique Edition
- Case: 42mm measurement – treated steel, cleaned – sapphire gem on the two sides – 30m water resistant
- Dial: eggshell grand feu enamel, dark Roman numerals, blued steel hands
- Movement: Caliber UN-324 – in-house – programmed – 4Hz recurrence with inertial balance wheel, silicon escapement and hairspring – Hours, minutes, little seconds, dual time, crown position indicator
- Strap: matured and waxed earthy colored cowhide tie with steel collapsing buckle
- Limitation: 99 pieces (official boutiques only)
- Price: EUR 12,900/CHF 12,900