Recently at Monochrome, we re-found a brand that appropriately “flies under the radar” yet that, trust us, has such a great amount to bring to the table: Urban Jürgensen. We’ve previously showed you a portion of their watches, including the 1140 assortment , with select development (and even a hypertechnical detent escapement ) or the Jules Collection . However, what would you be able to get for under 13,000 Euro when you open the entryway of a Urban Jürgensen retailer? This is the issue we’ll answer today, with the “section level” suggestion, the Urban Jürgensen Reference Big 8. (spoiler alert… you’ll get quite a lot)
This Urban Jürgensen Reference Big 8 is the quintessence of the brand. I imply that this watch is more straightforward, more limited, less illustrative (from the outset) and perhaps more immortal than the remainder of the assortment. It is the “section level” suggestion of the brand. In any case, this prompts an unavoidable inquiry… Will I get enough of the flavor of the brand when purchasing a particularly “open” watch (moderately talking), or will I want to be ransacked and will I be disillusioned by my conceivable buy? This is a significant inquiry, as regardless of whether it is the most open piece of the assortment, this Urban Jürgensen Reference Big 8 actually expects near 13,000 Euro (and for simple humans, this is a great deal of money… )
Without completely addressing this inquiry now, we can reveal to you that there are no such emotions when taking care of the Big 8… It is an eminent watch, from each conceivable point. Obviously, there are a couple of concessions to have, basically in light of the fact that the value contrast with a 1140 must be legitimized, anyway we’re not discussing lower quality or about less subtleties. All the mark highlights of the brand are pressed in this Big 8, for an extreme pleasure.
As its name shows, the Big 8 is a huge adaptation of Urban Jürgensen’s 37 mm Reference 8, presently highlighting a 40mm case. Somewhat bigger, all the more currently estimated to satisfy the longings of specific gatherers, yet immortally exquisite. To accomplish this extremely respectable value level, the principal concession that this Urban Jürgensen Reference Big 8 infers is to dispose of the valuable metals. Regardless of whether this watch can be requested in Platinum, 18K Yellow Gold or 18K Rose Gold, the rendition that is under the degree today is made in tempered steel. This more normal material isn’t that terrible either… truth be told, it permits a specific daintiness and is more wear-proof (as less simple to scratch).
Unaristocratic material doesn’t imply that the general execution isn’t great. Truth be told, even in steel, the instance of the Big 8 is still sublimely definite, the principle center being these tear hauls that are independently manufactured, heat-treated and afterward hand cleaned prior to being exclusively fastened onto the watch case (imagine the thoughtfulness needed to bind these completed and adorned drags to the case, without annihilating them… ) The 40mm round case includes a thin ventured bezel and a recessed crown, which makes it incredibly traditional and refined. No pointless subtleties, yet the case feels exquisitely planned and proportional on the wrist. The 40mm width wears rather little (the short hauls and recessed crown makes it compact), and regardless the 37mm could likewise be a possibility for the individuals who truly need to go good old and delicate.
The other piece of the Urban Jürgensen Reference Big 8 where no concessions have been made is the dial. Once more, likewise with a large portion of the watches fabricated by the brand, this dial is a tribute to conventional strategies and to preeminent subtleties. The dial is hand-guilloche; with various mathematical examples that are carefully engraved on a strong silver plate. In the middle, the guilloche design verges on a curved cartouche which shows the brand’s mark. The hour markers are Roman numerals imprinted in dark. The date opening at 6 o’clock is finely outlined, faceted and wrapped up. Once more, incredibly exemplary, however so lovely for connoisseurs.
And then there are the hands… These hands are extraordinary to such an extent that our own Xavier even composed a whole story in transit Urban Jürgensen fabricates them (and as he said, we’re near fanatical subtleties… ) These are altogether handcrafted from different parts in a complex, tedious custom requiring approximately 50 creation steps and longer than a day of work to make one bunch of hands. The steel arms of the hands are thermally blued to the predetermined Urban Jurgensen conceal. The mirror-cleaned gold eye of great importance hand is held set up by the sheer precision of the fit. The groups bolted on the hands are likewise in gold. These hands alone could legitimize to purchase a Urban Jürgensen Reference Big 8.
The last of the concessions which must be made to arrive at such a value level is to have a development that isn’t selective to the brand. In fact, the Urban Jürgensen Reference Big 8 is controlled by an out-sourced programmed Piguet development, the FP1160 type, the little second form of the well known and demonstrated 25.6mm Frederic Piguet 1150. For its Big 8, Urban have utilized a 4Hz rendition for a superior exactness, with two barrels for 48h of force save. The development is traditionally however richly enhanced, with Geneva stripes and anglages on the scaffolds, just as a 21k gold rotor with guilloche design. We advised you “concession”, yet this development doesn’t actually feel like a downsize all things considered. It is simply less elite than the restrictive developments in the 1140 assortment . What’s more, the extra comes from the thin profile of the development, which permits the Big 8 to be delegated a slim dress watch (with a 10.50mm case).
So, generally, what to think about this Urban Jürgensen Reference Big 8? When you put this entire thought into point of view, contemplating the 12,400 Euro cost of this watch (at any rate in steel), you’ll acquire a watch that offers huge loads of delight at the cost. Consider everything: what different watches available can offer a hand-made guilloche dial, excessively nitty gritty hand-made hands, a demonstrated, very much embellished and not-so-unaristocratic movement, a particularly point by point and wonderfully executed case, and the degree of restrictiveness expected with this name imprinted on the dial for under 13,000 Euro… ? I looked and I can’t discover numerous choices around, which means truth be told that this Big 8 is very nearly a deal. And afterward comes the general style: exemplary, immortal, incredibly rich and refined. Genuine autonomous watchmaking and hand-made subtleties at the cost of a standard extravagance brand… More subtleties on Urban Jürgensen in our past articles and on the brand’s site .
Technical Specifications – Urban Jürgensen Reference Big 8
- Case: 40mm width x 10.50mm stature – Stainless steel, cleaned (likewise accessible in platinum, 18k yellow gold, 18k rose gold) – Individually bound tear carries – sapphire precious stone on the two sides – 30m water resistant
- Movement: Caliber Piguet FP1160 – programmed – 4Hz recurrence – 48h force hold – hours, minutes, little seconds, date
- Dial: hand-guilloche silver plate, hand-made hands in thermally blued steel and 18K Gold
- Strap: Alligator calfskin, 20/16mm – pin or collapsing clasp coordinating the case
- Reference: Big 8
- Price: 12,400 Euro in steel – 22,500 Euro in Yellow or Pink Gold – 26,300 Euro in Platinum