UR for URWERK. T for Transformer. 8 for the movement of this reversible case. Add 20 for the 20th commemoration of the brand, and you’ll have the URWERK UR-T8, a watch that is only the concentrate of everything Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner have made up until now, all that they attempted to communicate in their watches since 1997 , all that they encountered as far as style and approach to demonstrate the time. The UR-T8 is the entirety of that. It’s strong, it’s futuristic, it’s provocative, it’s profoundly unusual… It’s everything why we love URWERK, and more than that. It’s just plain obvious, we love it… yet here is why.
In our presenting article, we introduced to you the UR-T8 , a watch that from the start felt exceptionally natural, still I had a few questions about it. I’m a fan (and by that, I truly mean admirer) of URWERK when all is said in done, with an uncommon notice for two watches: the UR-103 , to me the purest of all, with a striking, yet downplayed plan, and a showcase that summarizes the thought behind the brand. There’s additionally the UR-210S Full Metal Jacket , an exorbitant watch, hefty, enormous (too huge for me however I don’t care), provocative, complex, and yet, it likewise has a specific purity and smoothness, with this totally metallic look. I got the opportunity to wear both widely, for significant stretches, as every day mixers (I know, there are numerous motivations to detest me now) and never, I could discover a major issue with them. Without a doubt, this is exceptionally close to home, practically enthusiastic and a long way from rational.
Yet, when I’ve seen the press pictures of the 20th commemoration creation, this new URWERK UR-T8, I was incredulous. No goal reasons, yet an inclination. Press pictures are never offering credit to a watch. A watch is a 3-diemensional object that should be valued with extents, light, reflections, and of course that should be worn. This is the thing that I did during the SIHH 2017, where the watch has been presented. Furthermore, dispassionately, there’s a great deal to cherish here.
The Satellite Complication… improved
One of the signature features of URWERK has consistently been the satellite complication, which can be found on the absolute first watch made by Frei & Baumgartner in 1997 (the UR-101) and that can be found on practically all watches made later (UR-102, UR-103 , UR-110 , UR-20x , UR-210 , UR-105 , UR-106 ). Numerous adaptation of this display have existed. A few, straightforward ones, with only two circles (UR-101 & 102), some with solid shapes and a retrograde hand (UR-210), some with 4 plates, some with 3D squares pointing a moment track… The idea has been utilized and manhandled for our greatest pleasure, with consistently a dining experience of specialized complexity however (and that’s its excellence) with each time an extraordinary, practically whimsical, neatness. This has consistently been the sign of the brand. In the event that this showcase is far away from the conventional hands, in the event that it requires amazingly complex to accomplish actually, the outcome is consistently an extraordinary straightforwardness of time-perusing. What’s more, that isn’t frequently the situation with autonomous watchmakers…
What about the new UR-T8? Indeed, you won’t be surprised from the start when taking a gander at the dial. The presentation remains altogether devoted to 20 years of URWERK creation. Still dependent on a carrousel with satellites, utilizing plates like the 105, 103 and 106 and as yet having a different digit with the hour plainly recognizable and running on a semi-round track, to point the passed minutes. Likewise, there’s a portion of the UR-110 look in this watch, with the moment track on the case, and not on the lower half (like in the 103, 202 or 105). How to peruse the time? Take a gander at the photograph above; it’s 6h34. Simple, exceptionally simple. What’s more, on account of the UR-T8, this is the solitary sign you’ll get. All things considered, don’t be tricked, the system behind this presentation is complex, truth be told considerably more complex than before.
The 12 hours in gatherings of four on a three-furnished merry go round progressively clear across the size of 60 minutes to show the time both carefully and analogically. Fundamentally, in the center sits a carrousel with 3 arms, driven continuously hub of the development – yet quickened, on the grounds that it will complete 8 pivots a day and not 2. On each arm, a module comprises 4 digits, each for an hour of the day. Every one of these modules, a satellite, is additionally a carrousel, which pivots all alone. As of not long ago, no distinction with different watches of the brand. From 0 to 60 minutes, a digit stay obvious and run along the moment track. Once showed up at 60, the upcoming satellite module follows its journey. Then, when covered up under the case, the satellites will pivot on they own to set up the digit that will come later on the moment track (see the video underneath to understand). However, this URWERK UR-T8 praises 20 years of the satellite complication, along these lines it needed to bring more.
The advancement of the satellite complication concerns the digits and the manner in which they are situated while running on the moment track. For example, on a UR-105 , they follow the curvature of the track – they are consistently opposite to the track. In the UR-T8, the digits are situated one a planetary pinion wheels, to have them generally on a flat arrangement – and hence in every case completely obvious and straight when looked, whatever their situation on the moment track. So it’s not 2 isolated pivots done by the whole component however 3 – the main carrousel, the 3 satellites and the 4 digits of each satellites.
The Reversible Case
For the first run through, URWERK inaugurates a changeable case. Such a futuristic Reverso… We definitely realized that most URWERK watches were showing interest on the two sides, not on the grounds that they showed the development (like most watches) but since of the control dashboard the vast majority of the manifestations were covering up on the caseback – which controls of the accuracy, of the force hold or with the turbines to control the winding framework. However, their case were traditionally fixed. With the UR-T8, we have the “transformer”, a watch that has different sides, and that can be worn on both sides.
A arrangement of exact activities opens the case from its support, flips it over and returns it with a tick to ensure the time underneath a titanium shield. Squeeze again the two fastens on the case to deliver it, lift it vertically, turn it 180° around its hub and snap it back into its support to return to the time show. The thought is to have both a secret item on the wrist, where quite is shown, or when the case is flipped, a monstrous, strong and inventive piece of watchmaking with a one of a kind showcase. It’s up to you, up to the action, up to the conditions… The new UR-T8 is a 2-in-1 idea. The funniest thing is that with this watch, Martin Frei clarifies, URWERK needed to create a watch “that recalls the Reverso watches”, otherwise called probably the most traditionalist watches out there. The Reverso idea has been pushed to shiny new level here.
The Look and Functions, so URWERK
There’s where the UR-T8 doesn’t surprise, its style. Furthermore, to be extremely straight forward, that’s totally ideal for us. What we have with the “transformer” is a blend of many known components that have put the brand on the map, thus effectively recognizable.
- The larger than average and scored crown situated on the contrary side of the moment track (for the most part, it implies the crown at 12, yet here the watch is level, so it discovers its place at 9). This component can be seen on the 103, the 105, the 210, the 202 or the 106. It’s a signature component of the brand.
- The U-formed window – again a feature that returns to the 103 , and later utilized on certain cutting edge variants (for example on the T-Rex 105, in a more modest adaptation though)
- The combination of dark and titanium
- the enunciated tie connection – while most URWERK are massive watches, on the grounds that they don’t come with regular horns however a tie joined straightforwardly working on it, they do wear comfortably. The T8 is no special case for the rule.
- The textures… Matte dark textures appearing differently in relation to harsh metals, depending inscriptions on the carrousel. The entirety of that again reviews past manifestations of the brand. More than that, it is the example on the capitalized and on the shrouded side of the case that is ordinary to the brand (reviewing the UR-105 T-Rex)
- The even presentation, with 60-minute track on the correct side, much the same as the 110 Torpedo . This permits to have the watch under a sleeve (on the off chance that you figure out how to fit it under a sleeve) and to see the time with simply a smidgen of the watch appearing.
- The pneumatic control of the selfwinding framework. An overlaid turning vane associated with the winding rotor retains any unexpected and vicious developments of the rotor without compromising its winding proficiency. While on a portion of the manifestations (UR-105 or UR-210 for instance), you could pick the winding style, not here. In any case, the framework here essentially satisfies the equivalent goal.
Personally, when I take a gander at this URWERK UR-T8, I see a blend of the UR-105 T-Rex for the texture of the case, of the Torpedo UR-110 for the shape and the right-sided show lastly of the UR-103 for the state of the crystal on top. However, I love the amazing way the combination of every one of these components in a single watch is made. It’s anything but a duplicate past, not an uneven blend, not something that feels seen. However, it has a few motivations yet it makes it a pleasant commemorative watch.
The URWERK UR-T8 will be available in an underlying arrangement of 60 watches, in two forms: a full dark one and the one you can find in these photographs, blending uncoated titanium and dark. Price: 100,000 CHF (before taxes) Urwerk.com .