In a new close to home piece , our proofreader in-boss Frank, gave credit (really, let’s call it a love letter) to the superb Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8-Days. The watch he examined was the platinum/white dial form that Grand Seiko (don’t call them Seiko any longer, as GS is presently a brand on its own) presented back in 2016. This was one of those uncommon occasions where we highlighted a watch without an exemplary escapement and equilibrium, and it was completely advocated for a few reasons. All things considered, today we’re doing it once more, as there’s another child around: the Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8-Days, presently in Rose Gold with a Sparkling Black Dial (Ref. SBGD202).
To make things short, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8-Days is the embodiment of the quartz watch by the Japanese assembling. It has everything: the innovation, with the mark Spring-Drive development (a mixture mechanical/quartz); the looks, with an enormous however very rich and trying style; the value and top of the line advance, with a degree of completing that is beyond words. It very well may be managed by a quartz crystal but this watch (ref. SBGD201) basically controls . No equilibrium haggle switch escapement? Whatever, the innovation inside is bewildering! No Geneva stripes and a development that doesn’t show a lot of its guts? Whatever, there’s substantially more to consider! It comes from a Japanese brand that sells € 300 Euro watches? You may need to reevaluate what these individuals can do…
Back in 2016, Grand Seiko dispatched this watch, the Spring Drive 8-Days ref. SBGD201, a watch brought into the world in the core of Seiko’s safe-haven, the Micro Artist Studio in Seiko’s office in Shiojiri, focal Japan, where the Spring Drive Minute Repeater , Sonnerie and Eichi looks for Credor were likewise conceived. This child was the leader of Grand Seiko’s savoir-faire, sharing a large portion of the highlights found in Credor watches (regarding innovation, completing and enrichment). On the off chance that its looks weren’t so similar to that of other GS watches, it might have handily been stepped with Credor on the dial (editor’s note: Credor is a very good quality brand of Seiko, with an assortment that incorporates (among others) brief repeater, a sonnerie, a tourbillon and imaginative craftsmanships, for example, hand-enameling).
For 2017, this equivalent dazzling watch currently comes in a subsequent release, anyway this time, thinking about the achievement of the primary platinum form, no more impediment – which doesn’t mean it will be not difficult to get your hands on one. Same development, same plan, same case and in general details, yet at this point, a rose gold case and a sparkling blanc dial (more on that later.) The principal adaptation was ‘cold’ and specialized, this subsequent emphasis becomes considerably more present, yet not drained of elegance.
The advancement looking into the issue for this Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8-Days Ref. SBGD202 just concerns the material utilized. To be sure, the measurements just as the finishings stay equivalent to the platinum rendition, which means a 43mm x 13.2mm case, completely cleaned. This is certainly not a little watch using any and all means, anyway it wears pretty comfortable. The drags are fairly short and the tie is connected low, implying that it embraces the wrist. Obviously, don’t think of it as an appropriate dress watch, however more as an explanation piece with an exquisite shape.
The polishing of the case, which goes for what it’s worth (hauls, bezel, casebands) is finished by a Seiko-created method, named Zaratsu and gives the case forcefully characterized edges and angles – just like the platinum form, this case is among the best completed cases you can discover available. Sharp as a razor, perfect, incredibly shiny… Of course, it is currently made in 18k rose gold, with the characteristics of this metal: lighter than platinum however still with a huge heave to it, warm and dressy.
The Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8-Days Ref. SBGD202 combines a gold and black subject, shockingly, with a brown crocodile leather tie yet it simply appears to work. Nonetheless, it is the dial of this SBGD202 that truly catches your consideration. It is enlivened by a brilliant sky around evening time. Seen initially and in certain light conditions, it will for the most part show up as a polished black dial. In any case, when the sun hits the surface and when you see it in detail, you’ll see its excellence uncovered and it begins sparkling.
Thanks to an extraordinary interaction that combines both plating and painting, the dial of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8-Days SBGD202 appears as though sprinkled with stardust. It is energetic, very refined at this point intense and interesting. On the photograph over, this “sparkling” dial has been improved so you can see it altogether its excellence. However, in more standard conditions, this method leaves simply a marginally sparkling surface, not more (see underneath), and on a bright day…sparkles! For the rest, the dial remains similarly readable and shows similar hands and records as the platinum adaptation, yet produced in rose gold to coordinate the case. Both are done with an enormous meticulousness and exactness, with razor-edge cleaning and beveling. As you can see, no “Seiko” on the dial yet rather the GS logo in gold and applied and “Grand Seiko” printed below.
In terms of development, no advancements. Inside the Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8-Day Ref. SBGD202 is as yet the shocking type 9R01. While the greater part of the Spring-Drive developments by Seiko offer 72 hours of force save (with one single barrel), the 9R01 stands separated with a 8-day power save, on account of three barrels in arrangement. To limit transmission misfortune, the three barrels and wrench wheels are connected with no moderate wheel – and less erosion implies less wear and less loss of energy. Rubies are embedded into the barrels to diminish this contact between the barrels and the arbors. The force save can be perused on a committed marker on the development side.
As said, this development is a Spring-Drive, implying that it’s a half breed. As you can see, no equilibrium and switch escapement here, as the development is directed by a quartz gem. In any case, the energy isn’t given by a common battery however by winding the three barrels, much the same as in a traditional mechanical watch. This mechanical energy then drives the pinion wheels and turns the hands. A fraction of the energy from the fountainhead is utilized to create a minuscule electric flow, which controls a quartz oscillator. The principle objective of this development is a long way from passionate, nonetheless, it is driven by one objective: accuracy. In reality, this Caliber 9R01 is exact to ±0.5 second of the day (±10 seconds of the month) – much better than any mechanical development available… Frank clarified the Spring Drive innovation in detail here, in his survey of the platinum SBGD201 .
What separates this development as well, other than the 8-day power hold, is its wrapping up. Not that standard Grand Seiko developments are severely completed (a long way from that) yet this one is simply on other level. The plates and extensions are created from German silver. The blueprint of the scaffold and the inclining around the rubies and openings are hand cleaned. As should be obvious, the anglages are not level but rather somewhat adjusted, something that lone a modest bunch of produces (even in Switzerland) can accomplish. The extensions and plates are rhodium-plated, the surface is straight-grained and the screws are blued. Generally speaking, it stays a very tactful development that actually needs a connoisseur’s eye to be completely perceived. It is comparable to the best makes of Switzerland.
This new Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8-Day Rose Gold Sparkling Black Dial Ref. SBGD202 is just about as noteworthy as the main platinum version, anyway with a somewhat extraordinary visual taste. The originally was a ‘technical and cold’ piece while this one has more warmth to it, and possibly requires a smidgen more certainty to wear. Notwithstanding, the new “sparkling” dial is a dining experience for the eyes and uncovers staggering subtleties, while the general watch stays a show-stopper, both regarding strategy and wrapping up. The SBGD202 will be valued at Euros 52,800, and accessible around the world. More subtleties on www.grand-seiko.com .
Mind you, this one and the platinum adaptation are no restricted versions, anyway they are surely restricted as far as creation, as assembling these watches is very time-consuming.
Technical Specifications – Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8-Day SBGD202
- Case: 43mm measurement x 13.2mm thickness – 18k rose gold, reflect cleaned – sapphire precious stone on the two sides – 100m water resistant
- Movement: Caliber 9R01, in-house – Spring Drive innovation (quartz/mechanical half breed) – 8-day power hold – manual winding – hours, minutes, seconds, power save on the back side
- Strap: crocodile with 18k rose gold collapsing clasp
- Price: Euros 52,800 (retail value Europe)