As we clarified when Tudor presented its most recent vision of a vintage-inspired jump watch, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 39mm , inner competition is getting more grounded than ever… BB41mm or BB58? Intense decision! To reveal some insight into the circumstance, we have organized a go head to head between the Black Bay 41mm and the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 39mm and arm you with all the subtleties to assist you with picking what are, clearly, two incredible watches.
Background – the Black Bay concept
The Tudor Black Bay was brought into the world in 2012 , as the second step in Tudor’s recovery period – one year after the Heritage Chrono and the very year as the Pelagos – under the Philippe Peverelli/Davide Cerrato the board tandem. The Black Bay unmistakably reclassified the brand, repositioned the assortment, made the brand provocative again and set it back headed straight toward progress. The Black Bay was – and still is – the brand’s success and will stay the achievement of Tudor’s ongoing history.
The first model was uncovered at Baselworld 2012 with a burgundy bezel . The Black Bay was situated as an advanced estimated however verifiably inspired jump watch, with contemporary particulars and vintage plan components. The motivation can be seen in different 1960s watches ,, for example, the vintage Submariner Ref. 7922, Ref. 7923 and Ref. 7924. With a distance across of 41mm, its case was molded by more seasoned standards: flimsy carries, cleaned angle on the case, non-secured larger than usual crown, aluminum embed for the uni-directional bezel. In the event that the look was obviously vintage, the rest (quality, feel and measurements) was totally modern.
The same principles were applied to the dial. The matte black domed dial highlighted authentic components with overlaid contacts (gold-plated hands and files, just as overlaid engravings), a vintage Tudor logo (the rose) and the notorious “Snowflake” hands. This combination of current and vintage was the fundamental explanation behind the achievement of this watch, close by being a moderate option in contrast to the too-specialized Rolex Submariner, which clearly lacks some vintage advance (as per a few). Inside the case (around then) was a programmed ETA movement.
Several advancements are to be noted:
- 2014: the presentation of the 12 PM blue bezel , with silver-shaded files and hands
- 2015: the presentation of the black bezel , with a plated dial and a red triangle on the bezel
- 2016: the presentation of reference 79230 , presently with in-house type MT5602 (70h force hold, COSC certificate) on every one of the 3 models
In expansion to the developments recorded above, which concern the fundamental line-up, Tudor additionally played a great deal with this assortment by presenting a bigger 43mm bronze adaptation , a PVD-covered “Dark” release, a two-tone steel-and-gold variation , a chronograph , a date version with steel bezel just as a sub-assortment without a jumping bezel, first shown in 36mm , later in 41mm and this year in 32mm. Along these lines, as should be obvious, the assortment is very complete! So what is the purpose of one more release, the new Black Bay Fifty-Eight?
The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 39mm
What is the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 39mm? In the event that the Black Bay 41mm was a modernized adaptation of a vintage watch, the BB58 is a “vintaged” rendition of this watch… If you are experiencing difficulty following this sentence, this is typical. So allow us to make things clearer.
The unique Black Bay was a cutting edge take on the vintage Submariner watches. While it depended on some smart visual stunts to cause you to trust it was a vintage watch, the general idea was that of a cutting edge watch, with present day extents and current quality. The distance across was bigger, the case thicker, the arm band currently made, the development (particularly the second era) really contemporary… however, it additionally incorporated different mark components found on a few vintage Submariner watches (Snowflake hands, domed dial, cleaned angle on the case, overlaid dial, red triangle, bolted wristband). So, what we call a “revival watch” – the flavor of vintage in an advanced package.
This year, Tudor comes with a “vintaged” variant of this watch, with a more modest and more slender case, a marginally unique development and a dial/bezel that looks much more “aged” than in the past models. A cutting edge understanding of a vintage watch, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight presently comes nearer than at any other time to the first Submariner watches (from Tudor or Rolex), both as far as style and proportions.
The primary issue is that this watch doesn’t supplant the current 41mm form however comes notwithstanding the generally enormous assortment (comprising more than 50 references). On the off chance that the thought was to make disarray, this couldn’t have been done in a superior manner. In this way, vis-à-vis, how do the BB58 and the 41mm compare?
Face-to-Face: Similarities and Differences
Preliminary note: to delineate the distinctions and similitudes between the Black Bay Fifty-Eight and the standard 41mm model, we depended on a first era rendition of the 41mm form (ETA-controlled, non-bolted wristband, “smiley” dial). Since 2016, the 41mm adaptation has been refreshed with a somewhat unique dial, a bolted arm band and, obviously, Tudor’s produce development. This won’t impact this comparison, with the exemption that the second era with an in-house type is marginally thicker.
When set one next to the other, and from the outset sight, these two watches look very much like. The general plan of the case is the equivalent and is the general plan of the dial and bezel. However, looking all the more carefully, it’s simple to spot significant contrasts – and much more when you tie the two watches on the wrist.
As for the case, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight hasn’t just contracted in distance across, from 41mm to 39mm, each and every piece of the watch has been diminished to bring to the table new extents. While the breadth is diminished by 2mm, the decrease in thickness is much more conspicuous. The BB41mm with produce development is roughly 15mm in height – plainly not what we could call a super meager, in any event, for a jump watch. This has consistently been our primary complaint about this watch at MONOCHROME. This is additionally supported by the state of the case itself, with straight casebands that cover the whole thickness of the watch.
With the BB58, Tudor has shaved off no less than 3 millimeters, to accomplish a general thickness of 11.9mm – which, as such, addresses a 25% decrease. Notwithstanding that, the case has a somewhat unique shape, and part of the thickness of the development is currently consumed by an air pocket like caseback, making the casebands much more slender. The general sensation on the wrist feels like a re-visitation of the first extents of a vintage Submariner – a watch that consistently wore more slender than its details drove you to believe.
To accomplish this, Tudor has subbed the development for the new calibre MT5402. While the calibre MT5602 found in the 41mm measures 31.8mm x 6.5mm, the new development is now 26mm in breadth and 4.99mm in height. For the rest, the specialized base is indistinguishable – 70h force save, hostile to attractive escapement, COSC-certification.
So diminished width, decreased thickness, more compact case dimensions… What else? As we referenced, all aspects of the watch has been resized to make agreeable and more vintage extents, which incorporates the thickness of the hauls – more tightened, more bended and more slender – just as the width of the wristband – beforehand 22mm and now 20mm.
All in all, this makes the impression of having two unique watches on the wrist, with the BB58 being the nearest to the first extents of a vintage Sub. Comfort is, as we would see it, better on the BB58 on the grounds that the watch feels more adjusted. However, remember that it won’t essentially be the situation for every one of you. Just a test in a store will disclose to you which one fits you best.
As for the remainder of the watch, the lone genuine distinction is on the bezel, which currently has “gilt” markings – brilliant engravings over a black foundation. The dial, the hands and the engravings have likewise been resized to coordinate the new measurement of the watch, however, these are essentially difficult to take note. And that may be the fundamental issue here. Tudor might have given the BB58 a marginally unique character to help separate both references.
Verdict – Which to choose?
The simple answer would be “whichever one you prefer”. However, let me give you a couple of more contemplations. I would say that everything relies upon your taste and, all the more critically, on the size of your wrist. For somebody like me, with a 17cm wrist, I’d recommend going for the Black Bay 58. It will look more adjusted, more rich and will have more “vintage” sway than the 41mm rendition – which I own and love.
If you have a strong wrist – let’s say over 19cm – the Black Bay 41mm won’t be a problem… yet neither will the BB58. In the two cases, it will rely upon your opinion with regards to watches and your craving for vintage. I realize that a few gatherers/aficionados lean toward enormous, manly and vigorous watches, particularly with regards to plunge watches. For those, the BB 41mm is a solid candidate.
One last class of possible purchasers for the BB58 could well be vintage authorities who’d like to add a cutting edge, strong watch to their assortments and have an every day blender they can depend on. Surely, they will be satisfied by the 58, as it comes truly near what a Submariner was, harking back to the 1960s.
Our best counsel is: proceed to give it a shot! Nothing beats giving a watch a shot the wrist. Regardless, there’s no terrible choice, just decisions. One thing without a doubt is that Tudor doesn’t help us decide! Now and then, such a large number of alternatives make disarray – as great as those choices may be.