This year, you’ll see a few very nice watches from Ulysse Nardin, all paying homage to the extraordinary legacy of the brand (and trust us, since its origin in 1846, the brand has done A LOT). As of late, UN dispatched a watch as an accolade for the incomparable Ludwig Oeschlin (a watch that will before long be under our loupe) and now, we have something definitely different and very startling from the brand; a vintage-motivated jump watch… Surprising from the outset yet the outcome, the Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle, is appropriately cool.
While the current Ulysse Nardin catalogue does comprise different jump watches, under the Diver range , the possibility of such watches in past collections (thinks 1950s, 1960s) doesn’t truly ring a bell from the outset. Obviously, everybody know the antique Marine Chronometers (which still enormously motivate the brand and its watches) or the advancements of imaginative developments. Be that as it may, as far as vintage plunge watches, let’s concur, Ulysse Nardin is presumably not the first brand we consider. All things considered, there are a couple of pieces, and very intriguing ones to be straightforward. Today, the Le Locle-based assembling honors one of them, a 1964 model to be exact, intended for scuba divers, estimating 38mm in distance across and including a one of a kind case shape (particularly the lugs).
For 2017, Ulysse Nardin comes with a faithful, yet modernized, re-release of this 1960s plunge watch. The watch that enlivened the new release is unquestionably identifiable, with a significant number of the first elements being consolidated, but marginally upgraded to fulfill with current guidelines/needs/assumptions. The case, hands, dial and bezel are completely motivated by the 1964 model, and generally speaking, the new Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle feels like a right on target reissue, particularly on the grounds that Ulysse Nardin has been one of only a handful few brands not to abuse the vintage advance (an uncommon enough event that it has the right to be referenced). So for once, we won’t complain about seeing a touch of vintage-appeal.
Vintage-roused indeed, however modernized. The primary thing to note is the expanded size of the case, as this Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle estimates 42.2mm (versus 38mm for the bygone one), a width that causes it to appear to be very huge on paper. In any case, the watch has meager casebands, combined with a raised bezel and caseback, implying that it wears more slender than it really is. Likewise the drags, which show up rather long, are additionally somewhat deceptive. Once you put the watch on, the Diver Le Locle feels quite compact and sits well, even on smaller wrists (see photograph on a 16.5cm wrist).
The creativity comes from the state of the case, and particularly the facetted carries, which give the Diver Le Locle a pleasant allure. The whole case is cleaned steel, and is water impervious to 100m (enough for 99% of events in or around the water). This shape is devoted to the vintage form, as is the bezel and its supplement. The actual bezel is dark covered, while the supplement is aluminum, with a lustrous completion. It is gotten to the wrist by a texture/sailcloth tie with pin buckle. Generally speaking, the Diver Le Locle isn’t a genuine apparatus watch, as it is exceptionally shiny and cleaned, yet this decision fits the vintage-reissue thought very well.
As for the case, the dial of the Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle plays on the vital elements of the vintage form yet modernizes them, to fit with current norms. Both the matte dark tone, the state of the hands and of the records, just as the marginally patinated shade of the lume are all tributes to the 1964 model. Then again, the watch currently shows little seconds at 6 (rather than a focal second), anyway the little second hand is as yet unchanged glaive shape as in the days of yore. The date, actually present at 3, is currently magnified.
This astonishing situation of the second hand (in any event for a plunge watch) is all because of the presence of a cutting edge, in-house created development: the type UN 320. This motor highlights silicium innovation (hairspring, get away from haggle fork) and runs at 4Hz, with a 48h force save. Its pleasant design won’t be visible, as the Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle has a shut back highlighting a nice etching, repeating the 1964 original.
The Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle (ref. 3202-950) is currently available (April 2017) and is evaluated at CHF 9,600. More subtleties on www.ulysse-nardin.com .