Recently, we showed you Urban Jürgensen’s genuine section level watch, a steel adaptation of the Big 8 (priced at €12k before taxes), still brimming with very good quality subtleties (crazy guilloche dial, wonderful hands, hand-completed case) yet fueled by a remotely sourced programmed development. Presently, in the event that you need to go into the magnificence of selective types, there’s no compelling reason to go insane costly and to go gold any longer. Urban Jürgensen has another watch, the Alfred, which highlights, inside its steel case, the Maison’s P4 development. It’s significantly more open, yet it is still eminently executed and it is sold online only.
One thing makes certain with Urban Jürgensen: they realize how to make truly exceptional watches. The free watchmaker is known for making very rich and hand-completed watches, as we exhibited to you by clarifying in subtleties how they spend such countless hours to simply make hands , or by showing a watch that includes an uncommon detent escapement . Yet, who truly is Urban Jürgensen? The brand Urban Jürgensen & Sønner (UJS) was established in 1773 in Denmark, by Jürgen Jürgensen, a future eminent expert watchmaker, who was appointed Court Horologist by King Fredrik VI. Subsequent to going through Germany and Switzerland, Jürgen got comfortable Le Locle where he was utilized by Jacques-Frédéric Houriet, later to become Switzerland’s driving chronometer creator and considered by numerous the author of Swiss chronometry. His son, Urban Jürgensen (1776 – 1830) followed his way. He would later go to Paris to concentrate with Breguet and Berthoud, and on to London with Arnold.
Urban’s own sons, Louis Urban and Jules Frederik, proceeded with the family business. Louis Urban dealt with the company in Copenhagen and Jules Frederik moved to Switzerland and opened an industrial facility in Le Locle to create their watches. When the brothers died, a few individuals from the Jürgensen family kept on being engaged with the company, until 1912, when the last Jürgensen (Jacques Alfred) died. The next years were troublesome and a long way from stable, until 1979, when Peter Baumberger, a watchmaker and authority, begun the securing of the Urban Jürgensen & Sonner, which was completed in 1985. The company began to make very good quality wristwatches, with complicated developments, and in 2009, UJS protected an in-house type with a detent escapement. After Peter Baumberger died, Dr. Helmut Crott assumed control over the company for a couple of years, and in 2014, UJS possession got back to Danish hands, with Søren J. Petersen selected President and CEO.
The Alfred by Urban Jürgensen
Up up to this point, the cutting edge rendition of Urban Jürgensen was fundamentally focussing on top of the line, complex watches. Never-ending schedules , elite developments , detent escapement on some of them (a extraordinariness among the industry), gold or platinum cases, hand-guilloche dials, hand-created hands… Everything that suggests a significant steep cost. The section level watch of the company was (and still is) the steel Reference Big 8 , a watch with guilloche dial and out-sourced Piguet development. On the off chance that you needed to move into the select types, you needed to decide for the Ref. 1140, which implied around €26k. These occasions are over – or possibly, an option has quite recently been made: The Alfred by Urban Jürgensen. It is steel, it looks somewhat more current, it includes the brand’s selective development, it’s the most open watch to date with this type and it will be accessible just online.
Don’t fail to remember what mark we’re discussing. Passage level doesn’t mean concessions for what it’s worth. The solitary concession that Urban Jürgensen did with this watch was in the materials. No gold or platinum case any longer. The Alfred is made of steel, however otherwise with precisely the same details as the wide range of various 1142 watches – which means the 42mm measurement rendition. In that, it is equivalent to the Grenage dial forms we appeared to you as of late, with a similar sunken bezel, the equivalent fastened and hand cleaned “tear-drop” drags (which are a bad dream to make, as they are bound to the situation subsequent to being molded and polished…), a similar hand-made cleaning process… however on steel.
The second contrast comes from the dial, which again uses the “grenage” method as of late presented by the brand . While recently seen with Roman numerals, UJS has selected here for the (wonderful) Breguet numerals and a rail-street track for the minutes. On The Alfred, the dial is “grené”, implying that it has a somewhat grained surface. Be that as it may, while most dials are mass-delivered, here the execution is considerably more complex – it is highly tedious and requires some genuine abilities to be accomplished properly.
“The grenage method is an unmistakably handcrafted measure, done dial by dial. Each dial starts with a plate of strong fine silver, on which are made super fine etchings for the numbers and markings. The recessed etchings are hand loaded up with enamel, and in the wake of solidifying, the veneer is cleaned with precious stone paper, to leave its buildup in the scores. As you can find in our pictures, the logo, the numerals and the various tracks are in reality marginally recessed and they carry a fascinating alleviation to the dial. The grenage layer is then assembled bit by bit as a blend of silver, salts and other fixings are hand-brushed onto the individual dial. By electrochemical response, the surface arises as a lovely shiny/cold surface with a novel granularity that no mechanical interaction could accomplish. The outcome is incredibly fine, nitty gritty and exuberant, with an attractive shine.”
The result is an attentive dial, with a warm grayish tone and a fine surface. Old style in its look, it stays more contemporary looking than a guilloche dial, in accordance with the gathering focused by The Alfred – positively more youthful and less develop authorities. Concerning the hands, we locate the brilliant hand-produced hands, here in blued steel with a polished steel, ring-molded addition on the hour hand. Once more, these hands may very well be hands… from the start. Investigate Xavier’s inside and out tale about them , and you’ll see that they are not simply hands.
Another angle where The Alfred by Urban Jürgensen makes no concession is about mechanics. It is in reality the passage level watch for the assembling/in-house/restrictive development of the brand. Inside the steel case is the proprietary P4 type, with manual winding. This huge twin-barrel development, manufactured by Jean-Francois Mojon of Chronode (exclusively for UJS), offers a 72 hours power save and runs at 21,600 vibrations for each hour. As consistently with Urban Jürgensen the completing and enhancement are first rate, with Geneva stripes transmitting from the equilibrium haggle obvious on the primary plate. The forms of the three scaffolds are featured with wonderful anglage. The full equilibrium wheel connect is openworked and highlights inside and outside points while holding set up a huge offset wheel with change screws. The type number is engraved on a checking plate bolted to the wheel train connect. Screws are thermally blued, gem sinks and breaks are finely hand-cleaned. The snap spring surrounding the wrench wheel is another pleasant touch.
Altogether, Urban Jürgensen gives a significant amazing watch The Alfred. While the steel case takes into account a lower value, the remainder of the watch is made with precisely the same thorough principles as the wide range of various assortments. Section level it is without a doubt, however distant from a poor’s man offer. Everything in The Alfred is about hand-craftsmanship and Haute-Horlogerie, just contrastingly encased. At EUR 14,300 (ex. charges – or CHF 15,200 with taxes) it is unquestionably not modest for a “entry-level” watch, yet thinking about the general execution of the watch, it becomes some way or another open (relatively speaking).
The Alfred is solely accessible direct from Urban Jürgensen, through this page . Future owners will be welcome to a night at the Atelier in Biel, Switzerland with Urban Jürgensen CEO, Soren Jenry Petersen. More subtleties on www.urbanjurgensen.com .