When you think URWERK, you promptly think Sci-Fi, space-creates, super present day plan, sharp and striking shapes, surprising showcase of the time and haute-complication. Like them or not, you should concede that URWERK watches are anything but standard. They elicit strong feelings from us, one way or another. Nonetheless, custom and ancestral methods are not words that you would normally associate with URWERK… Until the brand came out with this unchained watch, blending century-old craftsmanship with its signature striking plan. Introducing; the URWERK UR-210 Amadeus.
The URWERK UR-210 Amadeus is an unbelievable watch. I say this with all due regard to its makers, Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner, and I’m sure they won’t can’t help contradicting me on this articulation. It’s intense, gigantic, weighty, razor-formed, completely out of watchmaking guidelines, amazingly present on the wrist and a long way from being circumspect. Don’t misunderstand me however, there’s no terrible emotions here. The UR-210 Amadeus may be a ultra-explanation watch, yet it additionally demonstrates an extraordinary meticulousness, a fantastic degree of enhancement and of hand-completing, a dazzling and special showcase of the time, driven by a complex mechanical motor. This watch is loaded with contrasts, such a combination between baroque and science-fiction… Like if Johann Sebastian Bach was the skipper of the USS Enterprise.
The base: the URWERK UR-210S
At the base of this extraordinary piece of horological workmanship, there is a magnum opus – or at any rate a watch that we, at Monochrome, consider accordingly. For the story, Frank and I literally needed to battle to decide who will be the one to audit this watch, a circumstance that wound up in some shared wrist-time. At any rate, back on topic. This Amadeus adaptation is a visual advancement of the URWERK UR-210S Full Metal Jacket , which doesn’t allude to Kubrick’s film but to the full metallic clothing of the watch. This unquestionably was the most technical production of Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, both as far as plan and innovation. While the presentation (more on that theme later) is the equivalent as all UR-210 releases (see the AlTIN or the Clou de Paris forms), the outer protective layer – a voluntary reference to military tanks – is extraordinary, made entirely from stainless steel, arm band included.
This gave the UR-210 a specialized and monochromatic look, and at a similar time, more steamlined – the wristband is nearly melded with the case – yet additionally a significantly more present day, more science fiction look. There is a bounty of metal on this watch, unordinary shapes and exceptional extents that make a legitimate horological UFO. This watch looks like nothing else available and this is by and large why it is such a triumph. Precisely and show savvy, the UR-210 is a long way from standard. In light of a conventional programmed development, the manner in which time is demonstrated is highly complex yet natural to read.
Centrally situated is the fly-back moment hand. This hand moves from 0 to 60 over a 120 degree curve, and focuses to the real moment. On its way from 0 to 60, it conveys the hour digit, and when it flies back to nothing, it delivers the hour digit and gets the following digit when it begins at zero once more. A brilliant framework turns the three hour satellites, so the right hour digit will consistently be looking up, and fit to be gotten by the fly-back hand. The fly-back moment hand, which also structures a casing for the hour satellites, is processed from strong aluminum and weighs simply 0.302 grams. It is counteracted a weight, so it is adjusted on its axis.
Also on the ‘dial’ are two signs on the two top corners: left is a winding productivity pointer and to the privilege is the force hold marker. The winding proficiency marker is something completely special to URWERK and permits the wearer to change the twisting of his watch to his/her own degree of action. On the back is a selector which permits you to change between full winding limit, reduced winding limit lastly, to no twisting at all.
The URWERK UR-210 Amadeus
To praise the 20th commemoration of the brand ( dispatched at Baselworld 1997 ), Frei and Baumgartner have chosen to utilize one of their lead models, the futuristic UR-210S, to make a provocative assertion, in light of a complete anachronism. For this retro-futuristic move, the UR-210 was changed by the expert hands of a talented etcher, Florian Güllert. “The enhancement is exceptionally post-Renaissance 17th-century, however on a strongly contemporary structure,” comments Florian. “The whirling example of acanthus leaves is generally reasonable for this style, standing out from the rakish look of the watch. We have blended the case, the crown insurance and the bracelet into one unit to make an extraordinary piece. I was given the whole watch to chip away at and I took it over to create a plan in steel.“
The pièce de résistance of the URWERK UR-210 Amadeus is surely this great etching work, applied on most outer pieces of the watch – case, arm band, crown security – subsequently covering all visible facets of the watch when worn. The outcome should be considered from an artistic perspective, before any judgment can be made on the style. The work done to accomplish these examples is extremely impressive. The metal is chiseled, hammered, engraved, pursued and is nothing similar to a modernly made surface, which we are accustomed to seeing in watchmaking. No satined or cleaned finishings here, the metal is unpleasant, textured and feels merciless, diverging from the delicacy of the acanthus leaves motifs.
This careful work took Florian Güllert over 260 hours to complete. The most surprising side of this etching work is the way it figures out how to converge with the sharp lines and rakish states of the futuristic UR-210. While profoundly surprising from the start, the URWERK UR-210 Amadeus takes another measurement when worn, being subtler and more steady than we at first anticipated. This respectability bodes well after Martin Frei discloses it to you: “we have developed a strikingly contemporary idea of showing the time, yet it depends on a 17th-century concept (the Baroque era). I see the UR-210 Amadeus as a continuum instead of a contradiction.” The UR-210 has come full circle…
The URWERK UR-210 Amadeus is the sort of piece we like here, at Monochrome. Brimming with contrasts, yet incredibly predictable, precisely insane, brimming with subtleties, with an astounding degree of completing, and completely one of a kind available. Of course, some will essentially detest it, which is absolutely reasonable. This watch is intense, enormous and thusly, saved for mature authorities – and it bodes well, as it will stay an amazingly restricted creation (expect 3 to 5 watches), all being interesting (every gatherer can modify the inscriptions done working on it). Estimated at CHF 210,000 (ex. taxes). More subtleties on urwerk.com .
Technical Specifications – URWERK UR-210 Amadeus
- Case: Width 43.8mm, length 53.6mm, thickness 17.8mm – tempered steel, full hand-engraved – grade 5 titanium caseback – sapphire precious stone on the front – 30m water resistant
- Display: Patented spinning satellite complication with meandering hour and three-dimensional retrograde moment hand; power save pointer; protected winding productivity indicator
- Movement: calibre UR-7.10 – 51 gems, 39h force hold with programmed winding, 4Hz recurrence – Self-twisting coupled to turbines and winding-effectiveness selector
- Bracelet: treated steel arm band with collapsing clasp, completely hand-engraved
- Price: CHF 210,000 (ex. taxes)