Recently, Vacheron Constantin revealed a mid-size variant of one of its most engaging watches , the attractive and exceptionally original Historiques American 1921 . However, there’s something precarious with this watch, and it’s about its name, and the size that is inferred by this “mid-size” label. Such watches have consistently been complex as far as market segmentation… Large female watch, more modest manly watch? It frequently falls between two stools, yet on account of the American 1921 Mid-Size, my choice is currently clear… I expected to wear it and here’s what we (a consistent choice from the Monochrome publication team) think.
Quick considerations about “mid-size” watches
Mid-size? What does this name suggest? What’s more, why has this name been made? We need to return to the mid-1970s when a portion of the top of the line brands made their now notorious extravagance sports watches – and that does likewise incorporate Vacheron Constantin, with the ref. 222 (the archetype of the Overseas). Around then, these watches were made striking, rakish and predominantly for today’s matters, in enormous sizes – 39mm for the AP Royal Oak, 42mm for the PP Nautilus, 38mm for the VC 222. Every one of them presented the idea of “Jumbo watches”, something that is currently generally acknowledged, however which was absolutely troublesome back in the days. Also, that obviously influenced deals, which remain very low for these 3 watches.
Soon after, these 3 watches were dispatched in more modest cases: 37.5mm for the PP Nautilus (ref. 3800), 36mm for the AP Royal Oak (ref. 4100ST) and 34mm for the VC 222. Directly right now these watches went onto the market, they were promoted and named by gatherers “medium” or “mid-size”. Shockingly, around then, the “mid-size” sobriquet alluded to diminished distances across, albeit still men’s watches – and they were, around then, selling obviously superior to the bigger versions. The circumstance today is very extraordinary: with breadths of all watches expanding definitely, the “Jumbo” renditions turned into the most collectable, and the mid-size adaptations remain underestimated. The equivalent goes for the advanced emphasess of these watches that are as yet in current assortments. These are scarcely seen as men’s offers any longer (think RO 37mm, Overseas 37mm or Nautilus 35mm – all generally ladies’ watches). Thus that is the reason we say that the “mid-size” sobriquet is tricky… But as usual, there are exemptions for the standard, and the new Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Mid-Size is one of them.
The Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Mid-Size 36.5mm
Back to the present, and the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Mid-Size. At the point when the watch was introduced from the outset, through a public statement, there were a few inquiries here inside. Is it a ladies’ watch? is it implied for the two sexes? Is it the adaptation that large numbers of us covertly anticipated? The last is important… While the plan of the American 1921 has consistently been adulated and broadly extolled, there was, for some authorities, something not exactly directly about it: the size. Promoted at 40mm (which feels like a generally sensible breadth on paper), apparently the enormous adaptation is… huge. This is fundamentally because of the state of the watch (cushion case), which covers considerably more surface than a norm round watch. On the wrist, this large American 1921 felt enormous and weighty (gold or platinum… heavyweight).
We subtly expected a more modest adaptation of this watch… Maybe 38mm. In any case, the American 1921 was introduced back in 2008, when huge watches were truly hot, while then again lately we have seen a careful comeback of more modest distances across nowadays, primarily on dress/rich watches. Be that as it may, when Vacheron showed its vintage-motivated, mid-size 1921 with a 36.5mm, it truly was a significant amazement. From the outset, we were dubious, for 2 reasons. To begin with, we’re so used to 40mm+ watches that a particularly little width promptly ordered it as ladies’ watches. Second, Vacheron Constantin showed the watch both on a dim earthy colored lash and on a lustrous red tie. The two sexes were plainly in core interest. Truth be told, in the event that you take a gander at the brand’s site , the principal picture of this watch is with the red strap… A ladies’ observe at that point? False… You need to attempt it to understand.
As said, the American 1921 in 40mm wears more like a 42mm watch. Along these lines, in the event that you apply a similar standard to the new mid-size adaptation, you end up with a watch that feels more about 38mm when worn… And that becomes very fascinating. As you can see on the picture above, nothing in this “mid-size” version, in any event on dim earthy colored cowhide, suggests gentility. The watch is completely indistinguishable (size apart) to the current enormous variant. Being vintage-enlivened and generally very dressy, the more modest width even gives the watch the full bundle regarding style, and to the exemption of men with enormous wrists (above 20 cm/8 inches), the 36.5mm rendition merits considering. Presently, let’s take a visit through the watch itself.
With the exemption of the measurement, there are no extreme changes on this new mid-size variant. The special style of the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 is still completely present. Truth be told, this watch has consistently been a fascinating blend of strength, class and creativity. While numerous vintage-situated pieces are roused by 1950s or 1960s pieces, and less propelled by workmanship deco plans (1930s/1940s), the American ganders at another period, very failed to remember by brands: the mid 1920s, so-to-say the introduction of the wristwatch. This suggests some advancement and dangers in the plan, combined with components suggestive of pocket-watches. This can be found in the position of the lists, in the general state of the watch, in the intense numerals…
This novel plan, which is promptly unmistakable, is completely back, yet in a 36.5mm case. The 18k pink gold case has a similar pad shape, somewhat more honed than the vintage observe however. Likewise indistinguishable are the drags that vibe like they have been added later to the case, with a cabochon on their tip. What’s more, the uplifting news comes from the extents. While the size of the case has been diminished, the development and the sub-dial haven’t. We in this way can appreciate a watch with a thin bezel (always useful for the elegance) and with a sub-dial that is consummately situated and proportioned.
The dial shows up from the outset to be the equivalent: enormous “Breguet” type numerals painted in dark, railroad minute track, dark oxidized gold hands with half-moon eyes and, obviously, the same bizarre and novel situation with the 12 list at 1 o’clock… What appears to be changed is the execution of the dial, it’s more grained than previously, with a marginally hotter tone. Additionally, the sub-dial has a more profound round theme. The outcome is incredibly subjective and lovely to look at.
The posterior of the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 mid-size uncovers a similar development as the 40mm variant. Indeed, nothing to complain about here, and in any event, something charming: the development feels sized likewise to the distance across of the watch. This type 4400 is one of the traditional developments by the brand (now generally utilized in the assortments, regardless of whether it has appeared with the American 1921), and one with current highlights: 65h force hold, 4hz recurrence, hand-twisted with pleasantly bended bridges.
This development bears the Hallmark of Geneva, which means the best expectations of value and accuracy. All edges are neatly sloped by hand, some in any event, highlighting sharp inside points, all screw heads are splendidly cleaned, the primary plate is decorated with perlage, wheels are roundabout grained, with slanted spokes… Overall, nothing clearly flashy from the outset, yet an exceptionally rich and subjective execution. Besides, the Hallmark of Geneva additionally infers some precision tests, implying that this watch ought to give a lovely dependable sign of the time.
It’s a genuine delight to have the superb Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 of every a more modest (mid-size) case. Most men (and additionally ladies who need an enormous watch) would now be able to appreciate the excellence of this 1920s-motivated plan in a watch that truly is proportional on the wrist. The model additions in style and carefulness, while not loosing its challenging side.
To the individuals who might be put off by the 36.5mm declared, attempt it! Don’t accept this as a rubbish. Don’t stop on numbers and recall that 36.5mm isn’t excessively little, particularly for a pad formed watch. Surely, the mid-size Historiques American 1921 is significantly more manly than some will tell, and more than specs will make you accept. Also, if that’s not for you, you actually have the alternative of the 40mm rendition – and offer this one to your significant other. More subtleties on www.vacheron-constantin.com .
Technical Specifications – Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Mid-Size Model
- Case: 36.5mm x 7.25mm – 18k 5N pink gold – sapphire gem on front and back – 30m water resistance
- Movement: calibre 4400 AS – manual breeze – 4Hz recurrence – 65h force hold – Hours and minutes, little seconds on sub-dial – Hallmark of Geneva
- Strap: Brown gator cowhide/Red croc calfskin with 18k 5N pink gold buckle
- Reference: 1100S/000R-B430
- Price: EUR 30,300